Spike Goes to Venice

Let the games begin....

2008-05-23T16:23:00.000-07:00

I am now officially and gainfully employed! I took the job today at the airline and start on June 2.

It was a crazy interview process. This was the company that I thought hated me after my first interview. Add in the mix a headhunter (not mine) in another city who wasnt the sharpest tool in the shed to confuse both sides with mis-information.

I had an offer on the table from another company since Monday and was stalling until my interview at PetSmart on Thursday. Loved PetSmart and really wanted the job. They told me they would give me feedback the next day. By the time I got home from that the headhunter said he got me a second interview on Friday at 1pm. Not being thrilled from my last experience I was reluctant but decided to do the right thing and go.

On my way to the airline interview, PetSmart called and said 'thanks but no thanks'. I was bummed and went into my second interview a bit disappointed figuring I would take the offer from Monday. In the directors office, the first thing out of his mouth was 'what questions do you have for me'? To say the least, I was confused.

In the end, it wasnt a second interview but was an offer interview! They had been working on the paperwork and approval ever since that horrid day of the first interview. Between the salary, benefits and lack of desire to accept my other offer from Monday, I said YES.

They whisked me away immediately to pee in a cup and fill out more paperwork than I thought was possible for a job. Medical and dental are effective immediately and those prized flight benefits are effective on the 16th day of my employment. Now I imagine people are going to start being nicer to me because I can get them some cheap flights!

And with this monumental transition back into the 'real world', I think this is a good place to stop the blog (for real this time!). I will enjoy my last 10 days of freedom before I start. I will use this time to get mentally prepared to keep the things about Italy and Venice that I loved close to me so as not to get caught up in the American rat race again. But if that fails, I can fly for almost free to Venice in a heartbeat to have a reminder!

Ciao for now........

But its a dry heat!

2008-05-20T20:12:00.000-07:00

I have noticed over the past few days and have received some emails that my second home in Venice has been a bit rainy. Quite the contrary here as expected. However, we are dealing with our own wierd weather.

Last week at this time, we were unusually cool for May at about 82 degrees. By Sunday, we had hit our first 100 for the season (105 to be exact) and then the last two days have topped out around 110!!! I have been in this city for over 15 years and its way to early for those numbers. In fact, we shattered a record for having the earliest 110 in the season as well as jumping so quickly into it. However, not all is lost, because a storm is blowing in and we are to be 79 by Thursday! I am sure that is another record.

I dont complain about the heat...never have. It was a choice I made to come here and leave Wisconsin (where it is downright cold alot!). Actually, I only ever complain about being cold! This is evidenced in my blog all year about the cold marble floors and humidity in Venice. I am the person who wears a sweater at work because the a/c is too much for me! So, 110 is not something to complain about in my book. However, it is a bit early in the year and hard to pace onseself knowing that 100 degree temps are around until at least early October. Lets hope after Thursdays storm, the temps decide to creep back up to just 100 for a while!

Here is the million dollar question, however. Would I rather be warm in Phoenix or cold in Venice? For now, I will stay in Phoenix. A job offer has come in and 2 other interviews are happening this week. I guess I will be gainfully employed by June 1. However, I will not count out being cold in Venice again sometime in my future.......

Exercise

2008-05-18T12:38:00.000-07:00

I paid for the gym all year because they wouldn't put my membership on hold and at $12 a month, I couldnt see myself cancelling and re-signing up at a higher price. The first day I walked in and swiped my card through the machine, the electronic lady told me to stop and check in again. When the counter gal looked at the computer, she said, "you havent been here in 411 days!" How is that for intimidating? But I told her I had a good excuse as I was out of the country. I dont think she believed me!

I tried 3 different exercise classes this week. As of today, we had our first 100 degree day, so being outside (which is what I prefer) is no longer an option until about October. I sure do miss just walking around Venice, climbing bridges and getting that exercise without even knowing it.

My first class was called Power Pump. Its an all over body and weight workout to music. I used to go to something like this before I left so I was prepared. My arms are still as weak as ever but I could tell that all that bridge climbing made the squats a heck of alot easier.

Then I went to Zumba! Apparently a new fad or craze since I have left, its Latin based music with dancing/exercise. Quite the workout actually. I used to think I had some rythym but I am certainly no JLo when it comes to these moves. The good news was there were a few people in there less coordinated than me so I didnt look like a complete idiot.

And finally, I tried Yoga. I tried it years ago and didnt like it. Guess what--I still dont like it. Not my cup of tea doing 'down dog', 'cobra' and 'side warrior' type positions. And surprisingly, it really hurt my knee. Remember the knee drama from January. Its been good since I have left the humidity but I dont think I am ready for the static movements of Yoga yet.

So, there you have it...I have re-entered the gym life of America. One small step in the transition and hopefully one that will have a good side effect in the end. Maybe I can figure the rest of my struggles out while I am swiveling my hips to some Ricky Martin in class next week?!

So much for gut instinct!

2008-05-15T18:23:00.000-07:00

Well, oddities of all oddities happened today when the airline called back and said they wanted a second interview and for me to meet the director of the division! They said they really liked me and my answers and wanted to pursue this possibility further. I looked around the room for some hidden cameras because I was sure this wasnt happening in reality! So, apparently, not only am I suffering from cultural shock, I have also lost all skills at reading people and understanding situations! :-)

I agreed to see them again despite the fact that I was sure they werent impressed with me. Everybody deserves a second chance, right? And afterall, they fly direct from Philly to Venice so they might come in handy some day for a freebie!

On another note, I am having my second American massage tonight. I sure did miss Gianna this last year (as well as a sheet over my body and the lack of paper thong action). She informed me that my neck is a mess and something is up above my right eye. Well, that would be the place where I hit myself with the infamous glass door last June or July back in Venice. Just thinking about that incident makes me embarassed and brings about pain. So, hopefully, she can fix the neck and the head and I might stop getting all those headaches. Of course, the headaches could be coming from the interviews at this point!

Interviewing

2008-05-13T19:10:00.000-07:00

Did I mention that I dont want to work anymore? Thats a dream of mine but in the meantime, I am out there interviewing. Despite the stats in the economy there are all sorts of job openings that I am 'qualified' for. And being on Monster.com and CareerBuilder.com sure takes some of the legwork out the old fashioned way of getting a job.

I had an interview last week with my old boss from three time removed. It went well and surprisingly I was rather excited about working in that environment again despite the fact that it would be a horrendous 25 mile commute each way.

Then on Friday, I got a call from PetSmart. That was fun...great company.....corporate headquarters are here and every Friday is bring your pet to work day. I would never do that to Mr. P...he's been through enough, dont ya' think?!

On Monday, I got a call from last weeks interview. The HR gal called to say they would call me back in the afternoon to make me an offer but she wanted to know my salary range. I told her and never heard back from them! :-)

Then today, I had an interview with an airline. What a horrific nightmare that was. I couldnt speak english or italian, was not impressed with the work conditions and they werent impressed with me. When it was over, we all just sort of got up and left. No one said 'thank you', no one shook hands, no one said 'we'll be in touch'....we just all wanted OUT!

Not a bad start really for the first week back from what I understand. Applied for several more positions this afternoon. Time will tell.

However, to hopefully get a routine (ugh I hate that thought) going, I went to the gym today for the first time in over a year. I loved the exercise I got from walking around Venice and 'hiking' over the bridges and taking bike rides on Lido. But this was way different and I already hurt all over! If I live through the night, I might write another blog entry and let you know if I got hired!

Hmmmm

2008-05-11T09:42:00.000-07:00

So last night was my welcome back get together at the Mexican restaurant. Boy did I pig out! I think I was very close to committing the sin of gluttony. Today, for mothers day, my mom wants buffalo wings, so off to Chili's we go! I am actually looking forward to Tuesday's diet at this point.

But the real part that plagues me doesnt seem to have a timeline and I dont really have much control over it. Last night was the first time I had any non superficial discussions with anyone since I have been home. Partly because I didnt want to and partly because I didnt need to. I was listening to my friends talk about various things and the entire time my insides were screaming. I just dont quite feel like I belong and I can relate to these things anymore. It seemed at times like I had changed so much that we were strangers and yet, I remember not too long ago participating in those same conversations.

I tried my best to express myself but it was futile. I rambled and probably offended and, in the end, felt worse than if I had kept my mouth shut. Even now, I struggle for words to describe how I am feeling. I wrote in my book shortly after arriving in Venice that plane tickets dont alter your life--they just transport it somewhere else. I am not sure I believe that anymore. Or perhaps its true and the actual living in Venice is what changed me.

And what has changed? Alot and nothing. I have this tug of war inside when I think about doing something. Just this morning, I thought about how nice it would be to have the morning paper delivered again so I can read it at leisure. But then immediately, I thought that was the old habit I had (and all I ever read were the sales ads anyways) and how much I wished I could walk around Venice instead and view the sights. Its a small thing, I know, but it only escalates from there when I think about my relationships and my future. Its rather maddening.

Perhaps I didnt really know myself before I left and have a better impression now that I am back. Regardless, I am different. I long for the feeling of comfort I had once here and yet I find it strangely repulsive. I dont want to fall into old habits and traits but I desire some consistency. I say to myself that once I have a job, this will all be better and at the same time I think that the job will take me back to that other life where I was someone else and I am not sure I want to be that person again.

This is all too deep and horrific for a Sunday morning and something I have no answers for, so it probably best I stop waxing poetic and move on to something else......like those boneless buffalo wings I am about to eat!

Eat Santa, Eat!

2008-05-09T19:41:00.000-07:00

As I continue to try and fit in again in this big ol' country and city, I seem to be relying alot on comfort food to help. And at this point, all food is serving as comfort food! If I dont stop soon, I will have to buy a new wardrobe.

I had a good interview yesterday and 2 more on the horizon next week, so I think someone will hire me eventually. In the meantime, however, I seem to be eating my way through the city. I miss the pizza in Venice and my one restaurant that served up some serious pasta dishes. But here, I can get ANYTHING I want!

Let's see, I went to Chili's and had a blue cheese chipolte hamburger with fries and I stopped at Quizno's for a sub and then I visited my old favorite deli and had the worlds best rueben (been wanting that since Dublin!) and tomorrow some friends of mine are all gathering together for a welcome back dinner at my favorite mexican place where I will eat more calories than humanly possible and drink a very large margarita (or 2!). Monday is a lunch with a former coworker after breakfast with another friend.....

And in between all those outings I have been to the grocery store twice. While I had good intentions of buying only fruits and vegetables, etc., I ended up with Ben and Jerry's ice cream, lots of peanut butter, and a variety of cookies and crackers.

Then there is the water. Its a shame we cant drink the water out of the tap here in Phoenix and I miss that about Venice. But in order to appease us, they have managed to create all sorts of water for sale--flavored, 'smart', vitamin, you name it and they have a gimmick for it. And I am falling for those gimmicks.

I feel full just thinking about all this...the diet starts on Tuesday!

The Interview

2008-05-08T00:01:00.000-07:00

I have to be honest.... I would rather have a root canal without novicane than go back to work, but since I am not independently wealthy, I went on my first interview today. I havent interviewed in almost a decade so I knew I would be a bit out of practice.

I remember they used to ask stupid questions like, 'if you were a sandwich, what kind would you be?'. This apparently would tell something psychologically important about you and be the deciding factor as to whether or not you would get hired. I decided that in the event, they were still asking this stupid question, I would answer 'tremezzini'. That should keep them occupied for a while!

But they dont ask that anymore....they just give you tons of psychological profile tests to come up with the same answer. And, they check not only your background but your credit and if you have a MySpace site and what you say on it (boy am I glad my blog doesnt have my name in it! haha).

Then came the question of all questions--why did you quit your job and move to Italy? Thinking quickly and knowing that they probably dont want to hear the truth (i.e. I was in the middle of mid life crisis and had to run away!), I chose instead to say: 'An opportunity presented itself that was too good to ignore and I was allowed the chance to achieve a lifelong dream'. Of course, that is true also, but its much more vague and doesnt lead on that I was in the throws of mid life. I think they were satisfied and I managed to get over this politically correct moment.

In the end, however, I dont really care if they were satisfied because this job was not for me. I have another interview Thursday, one Friday and a great call this morning from an airline...I hope they call back to schedule an interview.

However........I suppose now is a good a time as any to share with my blog community what my true dream job is for now. I spent a good 6 months creating my own website for a business I want to start here. How I am going to get it started and have a 'real' job at the same time plagues me, but I will do my best. Check it out and feel free to hire me!

http://www.azstreamlined.com/

Crime

2008-05-07T00:01:00.000-07:00

After a year in Venice, I forgot about crime. Or should I say, physical crime. Its no secret that the Italians are good at corruption and tax evasion but since there really wasnt a lick of crime in Venice, I sorta erased that 'inner fear' from my system.

It wasnt until today that I realized I wasnt in Kansas anymore, Toto! Last I heard, Phoenix was the 5th largest city in the country and the population is well over 2 million compared to my little 2 1/2 mile long island with less than 70,000 residents. So, one would expect some crime I guess. But watching the news for the first time and seeing a variety of murder, rape, robbery, etc. made it all real. Guns and drugs are prevalent again.

And when I got in the car for the much anticipated hair cut, I remembered that we arent really supposed to look at other people in cars because 'you never know'. That brought back memories of road rage incidents I have read about or seen. And before I knew it, I was a bit nervous and wanting. Nervous because I have to be on guard now and wanting because I can no longer walk around by myself after dark (or anytime for that matter) without fear. I am not a person who lives in fear and lets it rule decisions, but I now understand out of necessity how it does affect a person.

I suppose thats the price one pays for living in a large city, but it has certainly made me realize how special it was to be in a place lacking of these things. I think I had a taste of what it must have been like 100 years ago in the US. And short of moving to the cornfields of Iowa, I probably wont experience that lifestyle again soon. Venice calls me.....

Are you finding everything.....

2008-05-06T00:01:00.000-07:00

No, this post isnt about my unpacking (although I did make some progress). Its about how polite everyone is here! Ok, I am sure thats a sweeping generalization, but if I could get a euro for everytime someone has said one of the following to me in my 2 times out, I could come back to Venice soon!

Are you finding everything you need
Can I help you
How are you today
Have a nice day
Thank you
Hello
Goodbye
and my favorite...why did you leave Venice!? (ok, yeah, I have been telling strangers about what a great year I just had)
etc......

I wont harp on the Venetians anymore because we all know how I feel about their manners but I can tell you it sure does make a difference in your attitude (and for me, transition) when people are friendly. Albeit, its probably just stuff that most people say in passing and they really hope you dont ask them to do anything, but its still nice to hear it. I took that for granted before I left and now actually enjoy it.

I have a friend here in Phoenix who 'never met a stranger'. She talks to everyone she meets or stands in line with and makes eye contact. I never realized how important that was and how affirming it can be. Of course, I suppose it can be annoying to talk to everyone (like that person on the plane next to me from Atlanta to Phoenix who wouldnt stop talking for 4 hours!) So, lesson learned!

You might be asking where I went in my latest outing since I last left you with the idea that I was not going to leave the house ever again! I had a list of things to get outside of the 'brand new and improved and bigger grocery store' and went out to conquer the world and my newfound fear of consumerism.

After making a few stops along the way, it was off to Target to fulfill the list of 'stuff' needed. It wasnt easy in Target as the bright lights, pretty colors and sale items draw you in. I had several conversations with myself about whether I needed that or wanted it and why did I want it after I swore to my blog community that I wouldnt fall into this consumerism trap! In the end, I only walked out with what was on my list which I think was a first for me in Target (and they were sad about it I am sure!). One success under my belt.

So, another thing has been checked off my list....now comes the one I am really dreading...the job interviews. 3 this week and 2 next I think. I have really become accustomed to not working and have had no problem filling up my days--I think I could do it for a living! The thought of working makes me want to say....Ugh! Oh well, theres always hope that I will marry rich! :-)

Editors Note: As an aside, I am just tickled pink after unpacking all my shoes (gosh I love shoes!) that I havent seen in a year. It was like I just went on shopping spree and got all new ones. I think I am doomed to this consumerism thing.....will need to wear some sort of electric collar type mechanism that shocks me everytime I get too close to buying!

The Grocery Store

2008-05-05T05:43:00.000-07:00

I made my first venture out into the world yesterday....not because I was ready but because I had to. I had not a lick of food for me and the cat, so to the car and grocery store I headed.

Driving is wierd. You have to pay attention to so many more things than just walking! In Venice, my biggest concern was who was coming up in front of me and should I play the game of chicken with them to see if they will move out of my way. And listening to the radio instead of Italian conversations is almost somehow more distracting. However, just like riding a bicycle, I made it to the store.

The grocery store was an event in itself. While I was gone, they remodeled and made it bigger and better (go America!). I can now not only buy my food there but also most of my household supplies and my furniture! The grocery cart was 'molto grande' compared to the little toy models I was used to. And the room...oh my gosh....so much room to walk around.

I noticed immediately that the price of fruits, vegetables and cheese was much more expensive than I had left it and much more expensive than Venice. But, as part of the remodel, they did add several international sections so I can actually get a few of the things that I didnt used to be able to buy here.

I ended up staying in the store for almost 2 hours! And I think the people around me thought I had tourettes syndrome. I couldnt seem to focus and had sensory overload, so the only way I could get my brain in gear was to read everything outloud...so, here I am walking up and down the aisles saying oranges, beans, cookies, tea, ice cream, etc. What a hoot!

After a year of living out of a dorm sized fridge with no freezer, I felt like the world was my oyster. I could buy anything and lots of it (at least as much as an unemployed person can buy!). I purchased a 15 pound watermelon because I could put it in the cart, have someone bag it for me, wheel it out to my car and drive it home to the safety and convenience of my garage instead of the manual labor involved in lugging it over 6 or 7 bridges. Well that, and the fact that it didnt have seeds.

I didnt buy anything in the freezer section (except for that new flavor of Ben and Jerrys!) because I dont think I want anything frozen anymore. I really enjoyed fresh food and not sure I can go back to cans and frozen items...guess that makes me a snob now, but I think it might be worth it. Maybe I should get rid of my fridge and put a dorm one in its place? :-)

However, after that outing, I was ready for home and havent left again since....I hope I dont develop some fear about going out......guess all the more reason to keep up on the blog for a bit more---it will be therapy for me!

The TSA

2008-05-04T01:18:00.000-07:00

I managed to get 4 hours of sleep in 2 days--I wouldnt call it jet lag because that has never really plagued me, but more of being dazed and confused. Its an odd sensation I am experiencing. I dont feel lost but rather like I dont belong. I suppose this is normal even though I am living in a place I have been for 16 years and I am in my own home. After a year away, so many things have changed and so many have stayed the same.

I unpacked the 5 suitcases--or should I say, I deposited the contents of the suitcases into various rooms in large piles to be sorted later. Nothing was broken which I take as a testament to my packing skills. I should have gotten an Academy award for my packing--no really!

But the TSA did visit the big suitcase (the 88 pounder!). God bless them for emptying it and getting it all back in. They went all the way down to the bottom to check out the alcohol (i.e. limoncello), coming dangerously close to my limoncello glasses! And apparently, the TSA agent was a 2 year old because along the way, they ripped open a Baicoli box of cookies like they were Cookie Monster and taped up a bottle of limoncello (to let me know they were there in addition to the calling card they left) so as to make it impossible to see it or get into it! I hope they had fun.

And we're home....

2008-05-03T00:12:00.001-07:00

Its midnight in Phoenix and 9am in Italy...basically 24 hours from the time I left. I have arrived in no less than one piece and the cat lost another life today, but since he has so many, we arent worried!

I paid $700 today for my suitcases and cat! What a bargain, eh? Then as I was about to go through my last gate to board, I realized that the ticket gal didnt give me back my veterinary certificate....what a drag that would have been! So, just for fun, they made me go through security again (i.e. take shoes off, take cat out of bag, take 2 laptops out of bag, walk through, get dressed and organized, etc.). With all that, even before I left Venice, I felt like I hadnt showered in 3 days.

The flight from Venice was uneventful and almost everyone had their own row because it was empty. I watched 3 movies which was a treat since I havent seen a movie in a year. Ate some horrible concoction they Italian food on the plane and got a lecture from the flight attendant because I had the cat carrier on the seat next to me instead on the floor. She said I was committing some Federal felony and if the pilot knew, he would have to land immediately (nice trick since we were over the Atlantic!).

Being in Atlanta for 3 hours was surreal--my country, my language, my home. First, I had to deal with customs and my 5 suitcases..by the way, there are carts down there but no porters, so be prepared! When I finally made my way through, they saw the cat and told me I had to go to another line. So, I schlepped my 2 carts and the cat whereupon the woman there told me she didnt want to see any paperwork because they dont check cats! "What, you dont think my cat can carry a disease? I worked hard to get this piece of paper and then I almost lost it and had to go back and get...now, just look at it!!!!!!" Obviously, I was tired at that point :-)

The flight from Atlanta to Phoenix was completely booked and pretty turbulent since there happens to be many tornadoes going on right now. Poor Mr. P, lost his lunch a few times. It was a long 4 hour flight for both of us.

Upon arrival, two of my friends greeted me with flowers and candy and tabloid magazines so I could get re-acclimated! We paid the porter to schlep because I really couldnt do it anymore and came back to my house.

Talk about strange feelings, turning down my street and unlocking my door for the first time in a year. The house was immaculate, my mother had brought my car back into the garage and Mr. P seemed to remember his old stompings (either that or he was just so damn happy to be out of the cage!).

So, all the bags are right where we wheeled them in, I ache all over, I ate one candy bar already and I think its time for bed!

Last Day

2008-05-01T01:44:00.000-07:00

Or is it? As I am all prepared to go (finally got that last suitcase packed but had to mail another box to myself), I am going to wander around my city today and enjoy a last meal at my favorite restaurant.

I was given an offer yesterday to stay here to work full time with housing provided. So late in the game, but who knows what I will think when I wake up in the morning! Maybe I will just stay, maybe I will go, or maybe I will go and come back.

If there is one thing I learned from this year, its that no matter what type of planning, hoping and maneuvering we do, you just never know whats around the corner!

Its been quite a week of saying goodbyes (at least for a little while) to my new friends here. Very emotional to get that last 'double kiss on the cheeks' Italian tradition...I managed to slip in an American hug every now and then!

I have taken the opportunity to go out late the last few nights and walk the streets after the tourists and locals are long gone. Thats the Venice I love---the stillness, the gentle fog, the lapping of the water and 'whisper' of generations past hovering. I didnt think I would be this nostalgic or this sad. It actually hurts to think of leaving. But then again, it has been a dream of mine for as long as I can remember to live in Venice and, now, to wake up and see the dream ending has to be sad. I have no regrets--its was better than I ever imagined or planned for and I know I will be back.

To everyone who helped to make my year so special.....Marco, Denise, Gerry, Gabriele, Liviana, Monica, Guido, Tommy, Christiano, Elise, Ancelyne, Mimi, Ryan, Jo, Gaspare, John-Henry, Marilyn, everyone from the Pantomime, the cashier Nazi, and all the people who read my blog, who I met, and who visited me......from the bottom of my heart, thank you!

See you soon! A presto!

Let's Review

2008-04-30T10:55:00.000-07:00

There were several stories during the year that I mentioned on the blog and now might be a good time to recap where they stand as of now.

First, we have the infamous 4th bridge over the Grand Canal. Back in July I think it was, I stayed up until the wee hours of the morning to get a glimpse of the curved arch of the bridge being transported down the Grand Canal. Almost a decade behind in completion and uncountable millions of euros over budget, it was due to be finished by December 1 last year. Here we are at the end of April and it is still unknown when the first person will be able to walk over it. Despite the insanity of it all, they seem to be concerned now about the fact that all the steps are in glass and someone might just camp out under the bridge to look up girls skirts! How about we try to finish the bridge before we worry about silly things like that?

Second, we have the never-ending vermin problem (i.e. pigeons) in St. Marks Square. The seed vendors were to be out of there by April 1 and as of today, they are still happily selling to tourists. They have lost their appeal and are to be shut down (again) by May 1. This, of course, remains to be seen. The interesting part of this case is that the government has said they would pay the vendors the cost of lost revenue for putting them out of business!!!!! How does one calculate that (because I can assure you that they arent keeping records) and for what period of time does one get reimbursed (for 1 year, for 20 years, until you die)?

Third, last September, Venice initiated a new card for monthly vaporetto travel. Its called IMOB. And by November of last year, everyone was to have this new monthly pass type credit card and be swiping it on the newly installed machines at every vaporetto stop. Well, November has come and gone, not everyone has the pass, the literature explaining how the machines work hasnt even been printed to distribute and there are only 2 (count them 2) techs in the whole city who can install, fix, explain whatever about the machines! The electronic tickets can only be purchased at certain places because those 2 techs havent made it around to all the tobacco shops (who normally sell these sort of things) to install and train them. The new deadline of May 1 doesnt really seem plausible now does it? I guess they will be using paper tickets for a while yet, eh?

Fourth, the elusive street vendors strike again! It really is a comedy routine. You have all of these African men hawking fake Prada and Gucci bags to tourists and once in a blue moon you will see a 'sting' operation where the police will half-heartedly go after these guys making them disperse in all directions and possibly nabbing one (only to release him in a few minutes) and a few bags in the process (which I imagine they take home to their mom or wife or girlfriend). Then weeks and weeks go by with the police turning the other way as they walk past these illegal sellers. Now, surprisingly, the Guardia di Finanzia (the special police force in charge of business regulations) has informed us (the public) that these men are selling illegally made goods! Egads, say it isnt so! Is there a point to this story? Probably not, other than to say that it goes much deeper than the surface picture. These guys will be selling here forever because someone is making money off of them somewhere and in good Italian style, officials are being corrupted and paid off to make sure the illicit bags will remain.

And finally, my internet. As you have probably guessed by now, I still have the connection! I mailed them a letter describing in detail the events of the last 6 weeks (i.e. how I have tried to end my service and return their modem) and also explained to them that I would not be paying the charge they tried to put on my credit card for service through May 2008! I wonder how long I will have to keep denying charges on my card before they figure it out?

So there you have it....some things change but not in Venice...or at least not very quickly. A year has come and gone and so much has been seen and experienced by my eyes and yet, so much remains the same. But as frustrating as some of it can be, its also part of the charm of the place I have called home for the last year.

Lady Viscountess Helen D'Arbernon

2008-04-29T10:35:00.000-07:00

Monday night I went to a lecture about the lady in the title. She was born in the late 19th century, was a debutant by birth and marriage and lived a life of travel, art, literature and connections. And she spent a great deal of time living in Palazzo Justinian.

There is a regular meeting (in English) of this group in which they have presentations on various subjects relating to Venice. I had been invited earlier in the year but never attended. I thought it good to catch at least one as I make my way through my 'last time to do...' list.

To make a very interesting but hour long presentation short, there was a professor at the local university (Ca Foscari) who took a smoke break and stood under a staircase at the neighboring Palazzo Justinian. She happened to look up and see an inscription that said Helen D'Arbernon restored this dilapidated staircase in 1902. Serendipity.

After much research to find out who she was and her story, our presenter/teacher unpacked this womans life with picture, paintings and tidbits of diary entries from the likes of Ruskin, Brown and Howard.

I have done much reading about Venice during my year here....always fascinated at the history and web like relations of these famous artists, poets and philanthropists who I have heard in passing but never really knew. The Palazzo itself has a very long and vivid history and legend attached to it and it is no wonder that it caught the imagination and love of Helen. Venice has captured the hearts of many over the centuries in one way or another and I am honored to be in their company.

To be at a lecture where I was being read details of Venetian history and having the privilege of seeing pictures and photographs previously undiscovered or unmentioned was fascinating. Her biographical lecture carried us from Helens birth in England to Constantinople to Rome and, of course, to Venice. We covered Italy in WW1 and we peeked in on the lives of the rich society during that time. I can only imagine the 'fun' our teacher had in her research about this previously anonymous, sometime Venetian resident.

I look forward to the publication of this research to read it in depth now that I know its origin and location. Serendipity for the teacher having her cigarette and serendipity for me to attend this lecture.

Another Cultural Day

2008-04-28T03:54:00.000-07:00

I was reminded several times yesterday that I am living in a very cultural place. Back home, the majority of foreigners we see come from Mexico. The occasional other nationality doesnt usually raise an eyebrow as they tend to blend in. Here in Venice, blending is not always so easy.

In the morning as I attended my last church service here, we were honored with some guests from another church that the Reverend officiates. He was having the annual meeting of the church and invited members to attend our service in the morning and stay for the meeting. St. Georges in Venice could easily remind me of my church in Phoenix...nothing but white folk! So, what a great surprise and honor when about 10 Nigerian members of the Padova church showed up in their Sunday best and native costumes. They brought a life to the service that the often reserved English community cant repeat or muster.

Later in the day as I was showing some more people around Venice (it never ends!), the entire Jewish Orthodox Ghetto community walks by Rialto chanting and clapping. What a sight that was--not one you see everyday anywhere. I dont know the occasion but it was great to see them come out of the Ghetto (which doesnt happen much either), dressed in their black frocks with side ponytails and top hats! After crossing the Rialto Bridge, hanging out for a while (all the while singing and clapping), they turned around and went back the way they came!

And still later, we stopped in to visit a church (i.e. be a tourist) and I was surprised to find an entire congregation of Chinese folk having an afternoon service in english! There are many Chinese in the city as they are buying up stores like crazy but I wasnt aware that they had their own services here. And one doesnt really ever walk into a Catholic church in Venice and expect to see a Chinese congregation sitting in the pews.

What a nice reminder yesterday was of how cultures can co-exist even in the smallest of islands. America is often noted as a melting pot of the world, but in my little corner of it, we dont get much culture like that. It was a true breath of fresh air!

Tick Tock

2008-04-27T07:40:00.000-07:00

Well, with under a week to go, I have managed to accomplish two things on the 'to-do' list that I never got around to this year. Of course, thats a really poor excuse. How can a person who is unemployed for a whole year not get around to doing something?! Lets just say, the opportunity and the brain were not functioning at the same time until today.

First, I managed to finally come across a certain bridge I wanted to see. With 409 in the city, its not always easy to find just one. But I had heard about the name of this bridge, thought it was funny and felt the need to see it in person. Its called Ponte de le Tette or in english, Bridge of the Boobs! What a great name for a bridge. If those steps could talk, huh? I sure wish I knew why it got that name (something to do with being periously close to the old 'red light' district of ancient days past I am sure). Or better yet, I wish I would have found it earlier in the year and I could have given someone directions....can you see it--go to the Bridge of the Boobs and take a left....... :-)

Second, I finally found number 5 on my top 5 list of favorite churches in the city. There are about 100 so its no small accomplishment to see them all and make a top talent list. I was actually surprised that I couldnt find more than 5 to be honest and had a feeling that the Greek Orthodox church was going to be it. And I was right. I managed to be in the area, remember that I wanted to go there and was lucky enough it was open all at the same time! Its a very small church and pretty non descript from the outside, but in traditional Greek Orthodox flair, the inside is brilliant gold and very serene. Of course, pics were not allowed but I took the opportunity to get some rogue shots when no one was looking!

Quite a successful day all in all. I could come up with things to see and do forever in this city but I am quite pleased about todays events. Check and check. Now, if I could just be that lucky with the suitcases.....

Stuff

2008-04-26T11:33:00.000-07:00

Do you remember that George Carlin skit about how much 'stuff' we have? Its the one about all we do as humans is collect stuff and move it around--and then we buy containers to put our stuff in (containers like a house and car). Its an old routine of his, but I was struck with my memories of this skit as I attempt to pack for the third time already. I thought I was done but Delta changed their policy again and I cant take a carryon because they consider the cat a carryon! Nice policy since I have to pay for the cat--doesnt make any sense to me but under the current airline circumstances, I dont think it is possible to make sense of any of those fees.

Now, as I remember, I think I packed and repacked three times to come over here (shoes were the big issue back then). So, this shouldnt be a surprise that I would have to do it on the way home. But the real surprise is how come the 'stuff' that fit on the way over isnt fitting on the way back?

Here's the math....I came with 4 suitcases, a laptop and a cat. Some people brought over winter stuff which amounted to another suitcase basically. Over the course of the year, I did purchase a few things and then I went shopping recently to buy some souviners and gifts which amounts to another suitcase. I sent a suitcase home in Feb with a friend and one home last week with my friend. So why am left with 5 suitcases to fill here along with the laptop and the cat instead of the 4 I started with? The math makes sense but the 'stuff' doesnt fit!

I am travelling alone on the way back so we have to add in the challenge of me maneuvering all this 'stuff' by myself through customs in Atlanta as well as what an incredible amount of money its going to cost for all this 'stuff'. Of course, the price for everything has increased since I came over and at last count, we are looking at about $600 for my 'stuff' (plus the cat!). And, unfortunately, even with my math degree, I cant seem to make a difference with that number

So, back to packing my 'stuff'. My mother has given me a mantra to enable me to accomplish what is hopefully the last packing round--'let it go'! This is easier said than done but I have been practicing saying it over and over. My mantra, at the end of round three is going to be 'it is what it is'! And that leaves me to wonder if I truly got that lesson this year about being able to live on less?! :-)

Just for fun..here is the link to the George Carlin skit on YouTube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvgN5gCuLac

April 25th

2008-04-25T11:14:00.000-07:00

(Editors Note: I am publishing this a day early because my internet is 'supposed' to be disconnected by Friday--by the way, I did call the credit card company and took care of FastWeb my own way! I hope to check email and write a few times more before the flight--I am sure it will be nothing but adventures to share during this last week.)

April 25th in Italy is the equivalent of July 4th in America. Its a big day of celebrating and lucky for them, it falls on a Friday, so many people get a long weekend out of it.

But in Venice, April 25th means something else---those Venetians love to be different than the rest of Italy! Here it is the celebration of the patron saint, Mark. Obviously, the Basilica here is named after him and legend has it that his ruins lie here as well.

Seems that back in the 9th century or so, two Venetians took off for Alexandria to smuggle the remains of Mark to Venice so they could have their own patron saint and be better (or different) than Rome and St. Peters. To make a long legend short, Mark had a dream or vision once that he would spend the rest of life (or death) in Venice and so these Venetians thought it was only just to help a dead guy out. They smuggled his remains in a vat of pork so that the Muslim inspectors in Alexandria wouldnt get anywhere near him and know what they were doing. Mark arrived back safely in Venice and took his stance as the patron saint of the city with the winged lion as his mascot.

During the construction and rebuilding of the Basilica over time, they seemed to have 'lost' the remains of Mark in the building! So much for being revered! Anyway, they had like a huge prayer session and asked for a sign and Marks hand came out of the wall along with some smoke indicating where he was and they promptly moved him to center stage where he remains today.

There you have it....as a Christian, I cant help but be disappointed at this legend. But on the other hand, it is ever so amusing and the Venetians arent really pious about it and dont claim to have the end all authority like you find in Rome, so I get it and take it as another part of what makes Venice Venice.

As for celebrating this day, men are supposed to give a rose to their sisters, mothers, wives and girlfriends. What this has to do with the price of tea in china and Mark's remains I dont know, but I think this is finally the one day of the year that those annoying rose peddlers will be happy!

The Cat with 27 Lives

2008-04-24T02:04:00.000-07:00

Mr. Peabody never ceases to amaze me. He did really well under the circumstances for having to go to two different vets on two different days. He is basically in great health according to the first one for his age (17) but a little low on fluids. After an IV and a basic exam, I took him home to rest for a day until we did it all over again by going to the State Vet.

The first vet was nice enough to even write me a certificate of his health to present to the State. And after a few formalities of checking that his microchip was working and that I didnt just pick this cat up off the street, I have the paperwork for Mr. P to fly home!

Now, he can rest for a week or so until I have to shove him back in the cage for the long flight back to Phoenix.....he's such a good boy and I bet he will be super excited when his life of travelling is done!

St. Georges Day

2008-04-23T12:53:00.000-07:00

April 23 is the celebration of St. Georges day in England, so my church here is celebrating in kind. Knowing even less about English history and tradition than I do Italian, I asked the Reverend and his wife at bible study Tuesday night for the details.

St. George was a knight type of guy who was living in what is now considered Turkey and at some point in his life/career he saved a town in the area by slaying the dragon (I think the English folk have a great affection for dragons). Later on, Richard the Lion Hearted took a liking to George (after his death, obviously) and what he did and adopted his moniker flag (the red cross) as his own and therefore for England. And, so George became the patron saint of England. Thats it in a nutshell.

As for the celebration here, the church is sponsoring a dragon hunt! I am so sad that I cant attend (Mr. Peabody has a vet appointment in order to figure out what is wrong and hopefully get fixed before the flight). Apparently there are lots of dragons in Venice--who knew! I see the lions all the time because that is the symbol of St. Mark and therefore Venice, but I cant say that I have ever really noticed the dragons. The Reverends wife has assured me that she has personally counted 45 in her district alone!

So, you get an itinerary (short path or long path depending on how much time you want to play the game) and map and are sent off to find dragons. You come back in a few hours with your booty of locations written down, they are cross checked and you are given a certificate of authentication for the number you have found correctly! No prizes, no fanfare, just personal knowledge. And because I love to do silly things like that, I will have to participate later and on my own.

Here's to St. George!

Mulligan

2008-04-22T10:59:00.000-07:00

Nothing like having a nervous breakdown on your very own blog, eh?! Every now and then, I think I just have to talk like a sailor for a bit to get all the toxins out and make sure I dont end up with an ulcer some day! But after a day of taking care of the cat and listening to the tranquil nature of the rain beating on the sidewalk, I have somewhat recovered from my outburst!

I have had several mantras this year:

1. This is not a surprise to God
2. No drama
3. Sure, I got nothin' to do

Taking those into account (although at this stage in the game, I actually do have some things to do!), I am having a do-over today (or mulligan for you golfing fans). Its still raining, the cat is still sick and I still dont have a place to send my modem, but I am bound and determined to make this day different and better.

Off I go......

FastWeb Revisited

2008-04-21T01:30:00.000-07:00

So, this morning, I walked over to the store that is supposedly going to accept my modem this week after the internet is shut off. If you remember the story last month (yes, I have been working on this little 'project' for a month), they told me I couldnt mail it back to them in Milan but had to drop it off at some store. And they gave me the names of three places, two of which informed me that they are no longer authorized to accept the modems (way to keep your records updated FastWeb). This last place was still accepting the modems as of late March when we called and all I had to do was go a few days in advance to fill out some paperwork to open a ticket.

Not surprising to either you or me, but our final store is suddenly no longer authorized to accept modems!!!!!! If you could see how large the blood vessel on the side of my head is right now, you might have a small indication at how @#$%^&* pissed off I am. I have reached my limit--its neither funny nor acceptable. I am in the throws of packing, have a sick cat on my hand and its frigging raining again. All those niceties I wrote about last week are out the window today...I have to leave this beaureaucratic/inept nightmare for a while. I have officially snapped. Perhaps now would be a good time to go to the grocery store and have a moment with the cashier Nazi?!

However, I am, by nature, a law abiding citizen and will do my best to do the right thing. I have contacted a friend who will, one last time, ask FastWeb for an address to mail the modem back. I will NOT traipse all over Venice again to bogus stores. Either I mail it to them or I call my credit card and tell them not to accept charges anylonger from this @#$%^& company! But for now, I need to go take an Advil to get rid of this headache! :-)

The Final List

2008-04-20T06:00:00.000-07:00

Well, here we are...that last of my musings and ponderings of the two places I live. Today, I would like to share the things that I am looking forward to about being back in Phoenix.

1. Being warm! I think I did really well for an AZ girl in this weather. It was a very long fall, winter, spring with marble floors, fog, rain and general gloominess. I cant wait to feel the 100 degrees and constant sunshine beating on my skin again!

2. Knowing where to go and who to talk to in order to get something done. One of my biggest frustrations was knowing how to do things in this country (and trust me, they dont make it easy on you). I found that just finding the right office or person to talk to was just a big a hurdle as actually trying to explain what I want in Italian! And throw in closures during siesta time and all day Sunday just for good measure. I am looking forward to the comfort of knowing the ins and outs of business and government in the US.

3. My couch (I still miss that thing! Best investment I ever made), a garbage disposal, grapes without seeds and whatever else I put on my list way back at the beginning of this year!

4. A good pedicure, eyebrow wax and massage. Yes, I am a girl and I miss my treatments. Right after the haircut, you will find me getting all three of those things within the same afternoon. :-)

5. And, obviously, my family and friends. Its been a long year of emails, skype and plane trips for them to see glimpses of me but it will be nice to be in the same city again.

I imagine there are other things that I could add to this list as well--those would probably be some of modern conveniences that makes America what it is. But I have grown accustomed to being without them, so I guess it will just make it all that much nicer when I get home.

The Third List

2008-04-19T22:32:00.000-07:00

The reality of leaving is starting to sink in. Yesterday, I mailed a box back home. I was very proud that this box only weighed 15 pounds. However, the issue turned out not to be weight but size. I had to craft my own box in order to send my Carnival mask (and the rain boots that I will never need use of in the desert) home and in the end, it cost me 60 euro to do so! It is supposed to arrive in 6 weeks or so and they didnt allow insurance on it (?)--well, I at least have pictures of me in my mask in case I never see it again! That little adventure spurred me on to think of the things I am not looking forward to back home......

1. Driving--I mentioned yesterday how much I enjoy walking and by the same token, I dont really enjoy driving. Or should I say, the long commutes that are commonplace in Phoenix and the ever increasing traffic jams. Driving is a necessity in Phoenix either due to the heat or the distance. Maybe I can find a job that is only 2 blocks away from me and get my daily passeggiata in?!

2. Consumerism--its funny that I would think this while living on this floating island hotel/gift shop where shopping is one of the major activities. But instead, I have found that I truly can live on less and its not that important to get that new car every 3 years or a bigger house every 5. The American consumer mindset is addictive. Don't get me wrong, one of my first stops back home will be Target! But I am hoping that I can keep my simplicity and not get caught up in the bigger, better, faster syndrome that plagues us there.

3. Alarm Clocks--its been such a dream to wake up naturally for a year. I have found a rhythym in my sleep and I enjoy it. That first day of the new job when the alarm goes off will be a sad day for all of us--me, the cat, and all the people I am about to work with!

4. Crime--the nature of Venice with its labryinth streets and people milling about has created an environment where crime is almost non-existent because of the difficulty in committing such a thing. Back home, this is not the case. While my neighborhood and general living area is not crime ridden (at least not when I left!), I can honestly say that I never felt comfortable walking the streets alone after dark like I do in Venice.

5. Routine--with an engineering background and a human nature of being tidy, organized and on time, I was surprised to find the simple joy I get from 'not having anything to do'. Being able to come and go and experience whatever is lying around the corner at a whim has been a breath of fresh air for me this year. I am hoping that once I settle back into the 'routine' of working and life in Phoenix, that I can steal some of these times away for balance.

And, tomorrow....the last list...what I am looking forward to when I get back home.....

The Second List

2008-04-18T23:12:00.000-07:00

As promised, todays list is about the things I am going to miss once I leave. I truly pondered this all day (and have been occassionally thinking of it over the last few weeks as I start to do the 'last time' of something) and with great difficulty, have come up with the top 5.

1. The city--Venice captured my heart years ago as a child before I ever came and every visit I made strengthened that feeling. Now that I am leaving, a part of me will stay here and a part of Venice will come back with me. It is by far, the most remarkable place to me.

2. The food--while Venice is not known for variety, I have yet to tire of pizza and have found several pasta dishes around the island that I love. The bakery below my apartment has some great secret recipe sweets that they refuse to share with me and the freshness of the fruits and vegetables will soon be a distant memory. I was never a fan of red wine but truly love their house wine here and hope to find something back home that can recreate that flavor. The afternoon spritz and the endless flavors of gelato are great treats. I am sure my feeling on limoncello need not be mentioned again here! And, last but not least, coffee. I made it 41 years without drinking the stuff because I thought it was terrible. But now, there is nothing like my morning cappuccino.

3. My new friends--over the last year, I have met several Italians, several Americans and several Britians which I now considered good friends. They have helped to make my year even more special than originally planned. I will miss them and look forward to seeing them all soon again.

4. Walking and train travel--one of the biggest things I wanted to leave Phoenix for was the driving. Its exhausting and my daily commute of 25 miles each way for work took a toll on me. But here, I get to walk everywhere if I want and walking has always been my favorite exercise. At times I have tired of the bridges but I will definitely long for them and the bumpy cobblestone streets shortly after I get home. As for train travel, it is by far the best way to go. You dont have to arrive hours in advance, you can relax and enjoy the view outside and its very economical. I will miss my day trips to local cities.

5. Europe--and by that I mean the fact that in a few hours I can be in another country experiencing another culture with all that it has to offer. Now I suppose I could travel a few hours from Phoenix (by plane) and be in heart of Arkansas and experience something way different also, but it just isnt the same as travelling to another country!

This list was hard to narrow down and its probably seen as very high level....if I listed the individual things that I will miss, I would be typing well past the time my flight leaves! You just cant have an experience like leaving everything you know to live in a foreign place and not have a life changing moment or two along the way. For me, I hope to review my blog for many years to come as a reminder of my blessings and my fortune.

Tomorrows list? What I am NOT looking forward to when I return home.

The First List

2008-04-17T02:12:00.000-07:00

So, I am fresh off the bus back from the airport for the last time (until I go) dropping my last visitor off to return to sunny Phoenix. I am in the throws of packing and have come to grips with the fact that it is going to cost me more than I thought to get everything home--who knew I accumulated so much!

I thought I would use the next couple of days to ponder some of my top 10 lists (although I have decided only to make a list of 5). Today, I am thinking about the things I will NOT miss once I leave. And here they are.....drum roll please!

1. The genetic incapability of Venetians to form a line to wait their turn for anything.

2. The incessant pushing, shoving and cutting in line that accompanies this genetic defect.

3. The breathing in of second hand cigarette smoke all day long while walking the streets of Venice.

4. The general rudeness, curt nature and brisk behavior that seems to plague Venetians.

5. Having to pay more for something if I sit down or not getting a Venetian discount because I dont have an 'in' with a business.

Now, I am sure some of you would have thought I would have listed the cashier Nazi but, to be honest, in some strange way I think both she and I like our antagonistic relationship and I bet she is going to miss me! haha

I chose to only list 5 things because I dont think it fair for me to 'complain' about the culture of another country. Afterall, I came here to live in Italy and immerse myself, not to be an American living in Italy. There are other things that I dont care for or wish were different but they arent significant enough to list and I dont lose sleep over them. The list above makes the fur on the back of my neck stand up and therefore made the cut!

Tomorrow....what I am going to miss....a much harder top 5 list to come up with.

Day 3--Capri

2008-04-15T10:39:00.000-07:00

On my last day, I had planned on being very adventurous and climbing the 900 stairs (so the guidebook says) from the harbour area to AnaCapri (the top of the mountain area).

AnaCapri is where many of the locals live. I finally saw a few grocery stores and the like as this had crossed my mind before. I thought lugging groceries in Venice was tough but having to carry them uphill is worse than over bridges I think.

Well, anyway, my legs were a bit tired from the previous two days so I opted for plan B which was to take the city bus up. The buses are very tiny...they hold about 15 or so people rather comfortably but they seem to cram in at least 20 or more when it calls for it. For 1.40euro I thought it was a bargain. 'Thought' being the operative word here.

By the time we get about halfway up the mountain, we are into some serious hairpin turns (see pic with tiny little colored specs indicating cars and buses) where the width of the road is only enough for one vehicle and the drop off is deep and not fenced. I remember a similar event in Sorrento--I didnt like that time either! I immediatly got a hot flash and a queasy stomach and got off at the first stop the bus made, walking the rest of the way to the center of AnaCapri!

It was a very quaint little town with a fabulous church (famous for its floor and rightly so) and tons of cheaper ceramic items than a mile or so down the mountain in Capri and the harbour. Even the city benches were made of ceramic tiles and painted with lovely designs. I was also still amazed at how nice everyone was---genuinely enjoying a conversation and showing such manners. I had intentions of riding the chairlift to the very top of the mountain but after looking at it, decided I had done enough damage to my stomach for one day!

I took a bus down to Capri during which I stared at the floor of the bus the entire time so as to not think of the hairpin turns. Then I took my last funicular ride down to the harbour area to have lunch and finish my shopping.

I soooo enjoyed this island and look forward to going back. I will just be sure to bring a bunch of dramamine the next time! :-)

Day 2--Capri (afternoon)

2008-04-13T23:59:00.000-07:00

After lunch I vowed to find that missing hike from my guide book that I missed the day before. I started back the same way and then had the sense to ask someone what to do next. There are pretty good signs along the way, but somehow or other I think I took the extra scenic route the day before and missed the first sign.

This was another 60-70 degree incline hike along paved roads (roads being the size of sidewalks) but just like the day before, the vegetation and singing birds made it all worth while. I finally made it to the top and wandered around the ruins of good ol' Tiberius. He was one of the ancient rulers of Rome and a bit off center (of course, most leaders are, right?!). He spent the last ten years of his reign and life in Capri basically being exiled from Rome for some 'stuff'. As legend and history has it, he apparently was a pedophile among other things. Not that that was necessarily frowned upon in those days, but I guess he figured he could have more freedom away from the big city. He had this huge compound built for him back around 27AD or so I believe...needless to say, its amazing anything is still there and we can actually see it firsthand.

We all know that the Romans were par excellence at building and creating things, so I wasnt quite so amazed that they managed to have this made at the top of this mountain. But what did impress me is how Mr. Tiberius got up there as well as all his visitors. I am sure they didnt have access to the paved roads. It took me at least an hour by them to reach it so I can only imagine what they had to do. All the more reason to stay there once you arrive, I guess. Legend/history also has it that when Mr. T was 'done' with you, he simply had you pushed off the ledge to your death (which by the way, my boat driver Franco called the typical Italian divorce! haha).

The walk down was just as pleasant but somehow or other I managed a wrong turn again and wandered around in places I hadnt seen before until finally meeting up with the main 'road'. Its amazing how I can get lost in a paper bag! But in this case, it makes all that much more fun.

Day 2--Capri (morning)

2008-04-12T23:36:00.001-07:00

Fresh off a good nights sleep with some steady rain on the window, I was up and out on my second day. Like most Italian towns, they dont come alive until around 10am. I intended to take a boat trip around the island and stop at the blue grotto. Now, the guidebooks tell you its best to do this in the afternoon, but both boat companies told me the waters were too choppy in the afternoon and they dont run then. Thus, I took the 1030am boat tour!

Our boat had seating for at least 100 but there was only about 25--again an indication that I was there in low season and had planned that right! Our driver was Franco--born and raised in Capri. We stopped at the white grotto (white cave) and green grotto (beautiful green water) and then through the Faraglioni rocks. The one in the middle has an arch built through it from the water erosion. And again, the Italians are not short on reasons to love--they have a tradition that when you pass through the arch in the boat you are to kiss your lover or friend or whatever! They do call Capri the Isle of Love!

Through the arch we went and around the island to small harbour on the other side and then to the blue grotto. This was something that I didnt quite understand from reading the guidebooks. You have to get off your big boat into a very small row boat that seats one comfortably (although they put at least 4 of you in it) and then row over to another boat to pay to get in the cave and then wait your turn. We were 'lucky' enough to arrive just after a very large number of Japanese day trippers came, so our wait was like 30 minutes. After paying, you are rowed up to the cave entrance (about 3 feet around) and told to lie down in the boat! The driver grabs a chain, waits for the waves to be at their lowest point and pulls the boat into the cave where you can sit up again. Timing is everything obviously!

But all that (including getting green around the gills again from rocking in the small boat for 30 minutes) is well worth it once inside. That kind of color cant be recreated nor can my camera give justice to it. Its the same water as everywhere else, but the refraction of light from that tiny entrance paints a brilliant blue hue inside the cave water. Stunning.

Waiting our turn again to get out in the same fashion and then back to the big boat, we arrive all a bit wet and cramped but happy. The boat tour continues on and before we know it, we are back to the main harbour just in time for lunch. I ordered a Caprese pizza which came to me with the bread being warm and cooked and the toppings cold. But those small tomatoes on the inside of the pizza were to die for--the flavor was incredible.

Day 1--Capri

2008-04-11T22:09:00.001-07:00

When I last left you, I had arrived on terra firma and was walking my suitcase up the hill to my hotel. Unlike Venice which is basically a flat island, Capri is like a mountain island--everything is up or down there. I think I got an upgrade in my room because it was so much more than I expected--and I wonderful bay window that opened to the sea!

I didnt stay long at the hotel as I wanted to start my exploring. My first task was to take this walk suggested by my guidebook as lasting 3-5 hours depending on how fast one goes. I could have taken the funicular up to Capri town from the harbour but was feeling adventurous and decided to climb. While this wasnt the hardest climb I did over the 3 days, it was a bit more than I thought it would be. Most of the inclines there are between 50-70 degrees. At least they were paved or otherwise I would have thought I was hiking Camelback Mountain in Phoenix!

Once you get out of the touristy shop area, the 'streets' become lined with bouganvilla and wisteria and all sorts of trees and plants. The fresh smell is incredible. And birds are chirping just like you were listening to some relaxation CD. True paradise!

I managed to take a wrong turn--big surprise, Susan gets lost! This meant I missed one of the sights on the walk and I figured I would go back and catch it later by retracing my steps. Well, that didnt happen because the climb got more intense. I found the Natural Arch (i.e. a big hole in the rock) and started descending the stairs to this ancient cave where the Romans used to worship pagen gods. I stopped counting after 200 steps because my knee joints were talking. If I had to guess, it was about 500 steps down---mind you I had to go up first in order to go down. Apparently I was wrapping around the island and about to embark on the 3 famous rocks--Faraglioni.

After sighting them, the walk continues along passing a few incredible villas built into the side of the mountain and you eventually end up getting back where you started. All in all, I was 'hiking' for about 3 hours. All this time, I passed 5 people (of which one I asked to take the pic of me as proof that I was there)! I had no cell service and was wondering what would happen if I biffed it here on the rocks (seeing as how I have post traumatic stress syndrome from falling down the stairs in January)!?

I am actually glad I missed the first turn because I was tired as this point and ready for food. After my 1/2 litre of wine and pizza and dessert, I wandered around shopping and snapping photos and took the funicular ride down!! It truly is beautiful there. Very captivating.

Oh, and the best part (as if there could be anything better) was that my limoncello glasses were everywhere!!!! I was like a kid in a candy store.

Getting there and back

2008-04-11T03:28:00.001-07:00

So, I am fresh off the plane from Capri and figured my first blog should tell you about the journey...like they say, its all about the journey, not the destination, right?! NOT!

Getting up at 3am to leave is difficult but I managed to do it and that early in the morning, vaporettos and buses are either on time or they arent coming at all! All was good until we were boarding. They cram you into this bus to drive you to the middle of the tarmack somewhere in order to board a plane (still a strange phenomenon to me in this terrorist age). We sat in the bus for a good 10-15 minutes without moving. Then the driver drove us about 200 feet away to our plane! I am not joking. There was a hush in the bus and then a small riot...I learned some new Italian cuss words at 630am that day!

I arrive in Naples with no trouble. Let me first apologize to anyone who lives there or is from there or happens to like it there. I just dont like it. Its a dump and it scares me--this is my second time just passing through and I cant seem to bring myself to stop. Now, there are some things there I would like to see but so far I havent been longing enough to actually make a vacation of it. On the other hand, I have been treated very nicely by the people in Naples and even more so in Capri. If the Venetians could learn something from them about pleasantness, Venice could become great again, I am sure of it! But enough of that.

I take the shuttle from the airport to the ferry. Never have I experienced such traffic. I thought I had seen it all in Mexico City a few years back but they have nothing on the driving in Naples. This is the first time that cars actually drive on both sides of the median at the same time in both directions at the same time and hop over the median at will. Now, I imagine, there are some sort of 'rules' or guidelines for this, but to the observer its chaos. Jaywalking is apparently supported at all costs as well. The bus stops at the Castle ruins by the dock...and when I say, by the dock, I use that term loosely. It was a rather long walk for shuttle that claims to take you to the port. And I joined in (because I had to) with the jaywalking extravaganza. Woo hoo!!!

Just making the ferry by doing my OJ impersonation running up the gang plank, I settle in for my 40 minute or so ride to Capri. The seas were rough but not to the point of white caps. And I thought I was on a pretty decent size boat...about 300 seats or so. However, we rockin and rollin on that trip. After a vaportetto, bus, airplane, and bus ride, I was beginning to get a bit green around the gills. I was very happy to walk on terra ferma again and enjoyed the short walk up the hill to my hotel.

For my return trip this morning, I got to sleep in until 4am! A short walk down to the ferry to catch the first one out at 545am. This was one of those car ferries so it was really large (I have attached a pic of both of my boats!) and I was thankful for the calm ride after 3 days of being green in the water and on the buses in Capri (more on that later). This particular ferry goes to a different port than the one I came in on, so it was useless to me as far as knowing where I was or how to get to the airport. So, I paid an incredibly outrageous price of 55 euro to have a car waiting for me. Granted it was a Mercedes, but still very pricey. We got to the airport in record time as there wasnt as much traffic at 7am. The flight was only scheduled to be 5 minutes late and we boarded that same shuttle bus to the airplane on the tarmack. However, this time we actually drove a decent distance to justify it. And lo and behold, we arrived in Venice 20 minutes early...just in time for me to get my luggage and catch the bus to vaporetto and the short walk back to my apartment.

So, now you understand why I dont buy the 'all about the journey' hoo hoo! Tomorrow and following days.....the good stuff about Capri.....love that place!

Off to Capri

2008-04-07T05:35:00.000-07:00

OK..not much of a blog today other than to tell you I am leaving for Capri and will be back to chat with you on Friday. Of course, this all depends on whether Alitalia is still flying (as they are in heaps of trouble over here and I read about the three airlines going under in the US last week). And it also depends on whether or not I can make my flight in the first place...the airline changed my return flight and I have a very short window of time to get from Capri to the ferry and from the ferry to the airport at O dark thirty in the morning on Friday!

However, I will be indulging in limoncello, shopping for those elusive glasses to put my limoncello in (so I can stop drinking from the bottle like a wino! haha) and viewing the sights from the island. So, all in all, worse things can happen than getting stuck in Capri, no?

Back soon........

Graduation

2008-04-06T05:14:00.000-07:00

I have to admit, I dont know much about my topic today...at least not over here in Italy. But this is what I have learned or surmised over the last year.

Graduation from college takes place three times a year....one is coming up soon. How do I know this? Well, you start to see these large white sheets of paper with character drawings and lots of small print on them hanging on walls all over the city (I saw these in Bassano last week). Apparently, the person who is graduating makes these 'announcements' complete with ideal renderings of their looks and personality (as a foreigner in Italy, I can tell you that its always about boobs and butts!) . In the text, they talk about their accomplishments, the last 4 years of their life in school and others talk about them.

Then shortly before graduating, a group of their friends will 'kidnap' them, make them wear any of a variety of things or outfits that is pretty much deemed humiliating and parade them around the city. All the while, they are chanting this song that sounds vaguely familiar to the tune of Happy Birthday; because of the lyrics (as it was translated for me), I shouldnt really repeat it here. And for the life of me, I am not really sure what the song has to do with the graduation other than that is when they sing it.

This is all an interesting tradition and one of which I cant relate since both of my grad degrees came and went without me attending a ceremony! Oh well, to each his own.

Bassano del Grappa

2008-04-04T11:34:00.000-07:00

Thursday, I took what I think is my next to last train trip around the area to Bassano del Grappa. It was originally named just Bassano after Jacopo Bassano who founded the place. Then later on, the name was changed in order to honor the thousands of soldiers who lost their lives in the battles on Mount Grappa during WWI. And even later still, they decided to capitalize on the Grappa thing and sell some liqueur!

The liqueur name grappa comes from 'grappolo' which means a cluster of grapes. Grappa liqueur has been produced in Bassano since 1779 when Bortolo Nardini bought a Grapperia on the Brenta River bank. The Nardini family is still producing it and accounts for about 1/4 of all the grappa sales annually! Grappa is made from the by-products of wine making, the seeds, stems and skins. I was lucky enough to get some free samples of different flavors of grappa. And while it pales in comparison to limoncello (in my humble opinion), it was pretty good!

Bassano del Grappa is also known for the Ponte Vecchio or old bridge which is a wooden pontoon designed by the famous architect Palladio. And the town also has a strong tie to the Alpini which are the elite Italian Alpine mountain troops who had their heydey in WWI and WWII. In the town you will find homage to the Alpini just about everywhere as well as remnants of the war (see the pic with bullet holes on the building).

Around WWII time, there were some actual hangings of partisans by the Germans in the city. They have these well groomed trees that look like gumdrops with plaques and pictures attached to show the people who were hanged from them and the date.

It was certainly a quaint little town and I loved seeing the mountains up close. Oh yeah.....I searched again for the elusive limoncello ceramic glasses because Bassano has their own brand of ceramics. I actually found one (count them--one) that was just made and had yet to be painted or kilned. They told me it was the only one and they werent going to do anything with it, so it really was of no use to me--other than I now know that at least one of them has been made in the world!

Bike Ride

2008-04-02T23:35:00.000-07:00

This past Sunday we participated in daylight savings time here in Europe and it seems that not only did the clocks change but the mood changed as well. The sun sets at about 730pm now and still light outside close to 8pm. The people are out and about, the tables have been set up outside again for evening cocktails and the stores are staying open a little longer. The weather has been 'great'....great for here...in the mid to upper 60's for the last few days with bright sun. I think Spring has sprung!

And in keeping with the mood change, I went to Lido yesterday to take a bike ride to some parts I havent seen yet. Lido is like 8-10 miles long and about 1/2 mile wide. I rode from center to the far end and made a 3 hour trip of it. Well, I (we) did stop a few times, so we probably rode for 2 hours total. Let it be known that my butt feels like I rode for 20 hours!

Lido is the one island that allows cars on it but there are so many places for bike riding that are free from car action. We rode along the waterfront by the ancient breakwater system. We stopped at an agriturismo to get some fresh veggies. We swung by a city park that had farm animals (which is where we saw a goat much in need of milking--looked painful!). And we made it all the way to the end where the old military barracks were. Its very peaceful and sleepy like down there at the end....men standing around fixing their fish nets and people sitting in a local square just chatting.

We made it back in time to catch a great sunset....there are some magnificient ones here. And then after I got home and slung my backpack on the table, I noticed something sticking to it. Getting a closer look, I found out I had been the brunt of Pesce d'Aprile and someone had taped a paper fish to my backpack...so I guess, afterall, the joke was on me!

Pesce d'Aprile

2008-04-01T00:31:00.000-07:00

Yep, its April Fools Day! One of those 'holidays' that usually goes unnoticed like Lincolns Birthday. In Italy, its called Pesce d'Aprile or literally, April fish.

A pesciolino, or fish cut out of paper, is commonly taped to an unsuspecting person's back. His or her friends laugh silently and tiptoe around them. They ask each other, in mock seriousness, "l'hai visto?" - "have you seen him?" The unsuspecting person asks, "Chi?" or "who?" Everyone bursts into laughter and replies "Il pesce d'Aprile" - "The April fish."

Unlike in the US, they also celebrate here with chocolate!!! Chocolate fish began appearing in shop windows alongside the chocolate Easter eggs 2 weeks or so ago. Today Pesce d'Aprile is celebrated with presents of tiny chocolate fish. I feel the need to participate in this cultural experience today!

And in keeping with the day, I thought I would update you on the latest with my quest to cancel my internet connection over here. To be honest, I wouldnt doubt if what I found out is an April Fools joke but then again, in Italy, you just never know....

So, we finally got through to a person who said that yes, indeed they had received both of my requests (the second time they told me to fax it instead of mail it (thanx for making me spend 3.50 euro the first time) to cancel and that they will call me a week before the date to confirm. Well, of course, silly me...how could I not know your standard operating procedure of not replying or contacting a person about the request until 1 week prior to the cancellation!

Then we asked about how to return the modem. I no longer have to mail it back to Milan but I can drop it off at a place here in Venice. We called that place and the man said that I would need to show up about 4 days before the cancellation with my contract paperwork and codice fiscale number (like a SSN) to open a ticket for the request that he accept my modem. Then I can come back with my modem on the cancellation day and see if the ticket has been accepted by Milan and therefore he can accept the equipment! Are you joking? Is this candid camera? Is there a paper fish taped to my back? Why on God's green earth must they make things soooooooooooooooooooo difficult?

Well, anyway....happy pesce d'Aprile!

Who's reading?

2008-03-29T09:58:00.001-07:00

So yesterday, I got another blog comment and personal email from two people who apparently have been reading my blog over the last year. I dont know these two people and it got me thinking about how many people have contacted me over the last year because they read something in my blog. I decided to give you the low down on my readership as I know it and ask that if I have missed you, please add a comment to this message so I can be sure to understand the full scope of my audience!

First, I started the blog only because I thought it was going to be the easiest way to keep in touch with friends and family and avoid writing hundreds of emails. My dad is a dedicated reader and I am glad he can get a glimpse of what is going on here since he wasnt able to come visit me this year. My mother catches up every few weeks, but to her credit, she never liked reading so I am impressed she has hung in there with me. I am pretty sure my brother in Chicago never even opened the site but his wife reads occasionally I think, so she might give him updates. My brother in Puerto Rico probably doesnt even know I am writing a blog and my brother in Germany reads it when I remind him to. My aunt doesnt have a computer but I think she would have been a dedicated reader also.

As for my closest friends, well, they have mostly petered out over the year and some never even started (which in all honestly surprised me). There are other friends who I think read regularly because every now and then they send me an email telling me such. I think there are a few old coworkers who check in once in a while and probably a handful of my fellow church goers.

But, then there is the rest of the blog community. There was the girl in California (sorry I have forgotten your name) who loves to tango and wrote me after her first visit here last year. There is Bob in London who wrote yesterday and Annette in Nebraska who sent me a great email yesterday also. There are my new friends from back east, Anglu and LouAnne, who I met here in Venice when they came to visit and gave me great tips for my Malta journey. There was the woman in North Carolina who told me she wanted to do what I was doing but she is married to a military pilot and has 3 small kids, so that dream is on hold for a few years. I met Jo in Prague and I think she keeps up with me through this site. Holly wrote me from Reno and we recently had a nice dinner when she was here visiting. Tonya is from California I think and is writing a book that has some settings in Venice. She asked me to answer a few questions about buildings here. There have been a couple friends of friends who have come (or will be coming) to Venice and want to meet. And there was the Venetian who has an American friend who reads my blog (which is how he got the address) and was nice enough to 'correct' me on some of my Venetian ideas. There is Gil who has been faithfully posting on my blog and is always positive and encouraging. And dont forget Maryann who is the author of the only blog that I read (http://findingladolcevita.blogspot.com/) and has inspired me to maybe try to cook something one day. There are several other expats who I think check in on my blog occasionally and have put links to my blog on their site (which I assume is how many of my readers have found me). And I am sure there were other contacts throughout the year that escape me at the moment (please dont be offended).

So all in all, I actually think there are more strangers reading my blog that people I know. Which in itself is an interesting concept. Who knew that I would actually gather an audience! I use the computer alot and keep in touch with the world that way but I dont think I really understood how far reaching and how small the world is until I sat down to contemplate todays writing. For whats it worth, I appreciate your reading. When I go back home in May, I probably wont write much more after the first week or so because then I wont be living the charmed life in Venice anymore and the charmed life in Phoenix just really isnt quite as exciting! Until then, let me know who you are and I will do my best to keep it entertaining.

Houston, we have a problem!

2008-03-28T11:35:00.000-07:00

I need to tell you of a major problem that has global effects. No, I am not talking about the war or even global warming. I am talking about something much more dire--the production of tainted buffalo mozzarella! Gasp! I know!

For those of you who have eaten real, fresh buffalo mozzarella, you know what an absolute crime this is. And speaking of crime--thats the reason it is tainted.

You see, buffalo mozzarella is made in Naples in southern Italy. This is the same place where you might have heard about the insane trash problem they are having. Since right before Christmas, there is an area of Naples where the trash has not been picked up. Its lining the street and alleys, causing incredible smells and dangerous toxins. Its believed that some of those toxins may have contaminated the ground water and since the trash is also being dumped on agricultural land, it is tainting the areas being used to pasture the animals. Now, of course, this theory hasnt been proven yet but its seems plausible and also begs the question as to what other tainted products are coming out of Naples and how the people are getting along in the waste.

So, why not just pick up the trash like any other city in the world? Well, for that we have to look at organized crime. As I understand it (and I try my best to stay clear of organized crime!), there is the mafia that we all know in reality and through the movies and then there is the Camorra which is another organized crime group but runs parallel with the elected officials. So, while they probably dont put cement shoes on people like the mafia, they do wield some serious power and intimidation in the region. The Camorra has made a profitable business of illegally dumping trash and so far, no one has confronted them.

South Korea and Japan have already banned the import of the cheese and Italy is scrambling to fix this publicity nightmare. While the majority of buffalo mozzarella is actually consumed in Italy, its still bad press and in todays day and age, we all know how effective bad press can be. Its a sad story on many levels. The outright purposeful neglect of a community by its government because of intimidation, the tainting of a food product because of neglect and some of the worst travel press that a tourist destination can get. And for what reason?

Nove

2008-03-27T11:14:00.001-07:00

So, another miserable, rainy, cold day in Venice and the surrounding area...what better idea than to take a train trip, right? My first clue that this wasnt a good idea is that when I walked into the train station, almost every train was 1/2 hour or more late. Slowly, everyone got assigned to a train track but me. After an hour and just as I was about to walk out and throw in the towel, I got a train track. All was good until in the middle of nowhere and just 10 minutes from my destination, the train stops.

Who knows why we stopped since no one ever makes any announcement about anything. The interesting thing is that was stopped right in the middle of a railroad crossing, thereby stopping traffic in both directions for over 30 minutes! The horn honking was almost unbearable. But, finally, for whatever reason, we moved again and I arrived at my destination 1 1/2 hours late.

Where did I go? Well, I met one of my travel buddies in Bassano del Grappa. The idea was to visit this little town with great history and then head over to Nove to check out the ceramics. Because of the delay and having to always keep in mind siesta time (i.e. everything is closed from noon to 3), we decided to chuck Bassano and just go straight to Nove.

I have come to really, really like limoncello since I have moved here (I sure hope I can buy it in America?) and I want some ceramic limoncello glasses (they are basically shot glass size). I want ceramic because they freeze better and hold the cold longer...and limoncello just isnt good unless its really cold. My favorite restaurant here serves the limoncello in ceramic glasses (which is where I got the idea). However, they only have 3 left and have no idea where they got them from. I tried to buy those 3 from them but they too know the value of limoncello in a frozen ceramic container!

So, Nove is the ceramic capital of Northern Italy. Think of all the Lenox, Williams Sonoma and Vietri ceramics you see in the mall stores (and for that matter in TJ Maxx and Ross!). Chances are, they are made in Nove, Italy. Nove is like any other non descript European city in the middle of nowhere. Nothing to look at in particular and impossible to walk from showroom to showroom because of the distance between them.

It was interesting to see all those ceramic pieces and to see how cheap they are before they get to the US and in the Nordstrom kitchen display. I asked several of the shops about my limoncello glasses and they all said no and to check in southern Italy around Sorrento. The good news is I am going to Capri next month (which is where limoncello was originally made)! If they dont have them there (and at this point, I am willing to pay just about anything), then they just dont exist and I have a business opportunity if anyone is interested! :-)

On the upside, I did get the coolest ceramic limoncello decanter, so I am on my way. I suppose if all else fails, I will just tip the decanter back and drink it that way!

Oh, this picture has absolutely nothing to do with today except that this is quite possibly the worlds smallest car and I couldnt help but laugh out loud when I saw it by the train station in Bassano. Its smaller than the SmartCar. I dont even think a 5 year old could fit in there comfortably.

Here comes the laughter!

2008-03-26T03:09:00.001-07:00

So, after my venting session yesterday here, I decided to get 'serious' about these two things and work in tandem with my friends to get an answer.

I went out for my morning errands and came back to make the phone call to the vet. Lo and behold, he was there and I spent a good 5 minutes talking to him in Italian about what I wanted and needed and what he wanted and needed. At the time, I thought the best part was that he understood me and I understood him and I got my appointment.

However, I called my friend to tell her I got through to the vet and got the appointment and she informed that she, too, got through earlier in the morning and made me an appointment! Her appointment is 1/2 hour before mine on the same day. Her Italian is extremely good so we are now wondering why this man didnt say something about how strange it is that two American girls with cats are leaving on exactly the same day and have the same name...what are the odds?!

At any rate, I am keeping both appointments and will fill him in on the 'secret' once I am there. Next thing to accomplish....my internet connection cancellation....watchout FastWeb, I am on a mission!

Aaaarrrgggghhhhh!

2008-03-25T01:25:00.000-07:00

I really have no other title for this segment. Over the past year, I have shared with you some of the intracacies of Italian/Venetian bureaucracy and for the most part, I have been able to laugh it off. For whatever reason, I cant seem to find any humor in this latest episode--perhaps because I need these things to be done in order to leave this country!

First, I have been trying (or should I say with the help of a friend, I have been trying) for 2 weeks to get a hold of the state vet who is the keeper of some piece of paper I need in order to take the cat back home. He is only in the office by appointment and numerous phone calls have gone unanswered (dont even think about asking if there is an answering machine!). On the few occasions that someone did answer the phone, we were told that we had to speak directly to the vet in order to get information and make an appointment to get the holy grail paperwork. Of course, this only begs the question as to what this person is doing by answering the phone if they can neither answers questions nor make appointments--sounds like a great job! I have even walked my happy butt over to the office and rang the doorbell numerous times but obviously, I havent hit upon a time when he has made an appointment with someone else. Some would call this a conundrum. All I know is that it is making me a curmudgeon!

Secondly, I started also 2 weeks ago to cancel my internet connection here in Venice. After going to the storefront where I originally signed up with no problem, I was told I had to call a number to find out what to do. So, calling the number, I am told I have to write a letter stating that I want my service cancelled (I dont get to pick the date by the way--they just need 30 days after they receive the letter in order to take of this business) and mail it via the post office with a return receipt. Additionally, they are going to charge me 49 euro to cancel AND I have to pay to send the modem back to them (no, I cant drop it off at the storefront!). Once they receive my letter, they will send me a text message on my cell phone telling me where to mail the modem and what day my service is cancelled. Well, here we are 2 weeks later and I have not gotten my return receipt back nor heard from the company. I have done as much as I can and have enlisted yet another friend to take over for me in Italian to see if there is any hope of ever cancelling my internet service in Italy.

It is beyond me and I continue to be amazed (although I am not sure why anymore) as the complete lack of customer service that exists over here. I am not even asking anyone to be curtious to me anymore (those days long past) but how about actually doing your job? What a novel concept........

Oh well, I am sure someday, I will find laughter again....

Buona Pasqua!

2008-03-23T02:00:00.000-07:00

Happy Easter! While I havent seen any easter bunnies or colored eggs or baskets filled with plastic grass and chocolate, it is evident that Easter has arrived in Venice. The traditional sweet to have at Easter is a panettone. Its also very popular around Christmastime. Based on a variation of the Italian braided loaf, it is sweetened with raisins, pine nuts, citron and other flavors.

You can buy them at all the local bakeries and they are packaged just so. But you can also get them at the grocery store--albeit not as fresh and tasty but they do offer other flavors this way. I happen to like the one flavored with limoncello!

There is plenty of chocolate around. Little Lindt chocolate Easter eggs are everywhere. And the finer bakeries will show off their skills by creating large chocolate eggs and the occassional chicken or bunny. As always, bakery items are sold by the gram not by the piece.

I am doing my best not to buy one of everything but I have this sense of urgency that I wont be getting any more of this once I return home...quite the quandry!

A View from the Top

2008-03-22T23:35:00.000-07:00

We have all seen plenty of pics of Venice from the eye level or even perhaps looking up, but I thought I would share some pics of the city from a different point of view....on top of it! These have been taken over the years from different vantage points in the city. Enjoy the perspective.

Churches of Venice

2008-03-20T23:43:00.000-07:00

For those of you who aren't aware, there are about 100 churches in Venice currently--85 or so that are Catholic and the remaining of various other denominations. There used to be many more, but either over time or through the works of Napolean, they were destroyed. Not that 100 is anything to sneeze at on an island of this size. Additionally, not all of them are in 'working' order--some are used as storage places, some as art galleries, one has been turned into a theater, etc. But there is still more than enough to go around.

One of my goals this year was to visit all the churches with notebook in hand and make some notes of what I thought. I am not a trained art or architectural critic, so my notes are more personal reflections. Or should I say, my notes WERE going to be such. I never got around to taking the notebook with me and I didnt make it to all 100, but I made a pretty good dent in the number.

At last count, I had visited around 60 of them! Some I cant find because there is no address listed and wandering around the labryinth of Venice isnt always the best way to find something. Others I walked in and out of in less than 2 minutes because 'it didnt do anything for me'. And there are still a handful left that I want to see before I go.

Along the way, I starting making my top 5 favorite churches of Venice list. Unfortunately, I only have 4 on the list because I havent found that last one that ranks worthy enough to get the coveted spot. So, here is my list in the order I would rank them (i.e. my personal favorites):

1: San Zaccariah--this was the first church I entered years ago and I love the atmosphere in here. Its small, covered from floor to ceiling with paintings and has provided me many hours of solace.

2. The Gesuiti church at Fondamente Nove--this is one of the most impressive churches I think I have ever seen. Green and white marble everywhere. They have even managed to make the marble look like draped cloth. Its truly breath taking and I snapped some rogue pics for you (its not allowed to take pics in this church) so you can get an idea.

3. San Pantalon--the outside of this church was never finished so it looks very raw and unassuming. But the minute you walk inside and lift your head to the ceiling, you are awed. The entire ceiling is a painting that has 3D qualities to it. I have many times lied on the pew and stared at the ceiling. Its a rather dark church, but I have included some pics as well.

4. The Miracoli church--this is the jewel of the Venetians. It is the only church on the island where you can literally see all 4 sides of the building as it is constructed on its own little island at the crossroads of some canals. When you walk inside, its like being in a jewelry box. The pulpit area is raised so high above the seating area that you almost expect to hear/see a little ballerina twirling around at the top of it! This is another that doesnt allow pics and I have yet to snap any rogue ones, so you will just have to take my word for it.

Lets hope I get number 5 in pretty soon!

The Last Supper

2008-03-19T23:12:00.001-07:00

Not my last supper but THE Last Supper. I was able to snag one of the 10 remaining tickets for the next 3 months to get in and see the famous DaVinci painting. It was a long day for the 15 minutes I was allowed to view it. There was the boat to the train station. The train for 2 1/2 hours to Milan. The underground Metro in Milan to the Duomo. And finally, the old fashioned Milan tram from the Duomo to the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie where the painting is housed next door in the refractory. Whew!

I am not impressed with Milan but since I am not impressed with New York, this is no surprise to me. Its a chaotic city crammed with people and modes of transportation that dont seem to be following any sort of rules of the road. While I am not a country girl, a city like this is just too much sensory overload for me.

The Duomo is beautiful and I cant help but make the reference to the Duomo in Cologne...the resemblance is striking (both the dark grey nature inside as well as the spires outside) except that they have obviously cleaned the Milan one and the Cologne remains black with centuries of smoot.

The church of Santa Maria delle Grazie is in the middle of what looks like a residential area (albeit on a tram line). Its a smaller, red brick, unassuming church but has great beauty on the inside. I thoroughly enjoyed walking around there. And the blooming magnolia trees (I think thats what they were) gave me the long awaited sign that spring might actually be just around the corner.

The Last Supper is next door to the church in this drab yellow building which is nothing more than a reception area, small gift shop (of course) and the refractory. The refractory has no windows, rectangular in shape and the 2 longer walls are completely empty of any artwork or paint. So, that leaves you with the Last Supper on one side and a painting of the crucifixtion on the other side and 4 benches along the wall.

After entering through the security doors to maintain the oxygen/humidity levels, there it was. It was a strange feeling looking at it (all 15 feet by 29 feet of it!). I was not impressed because I have seen it so many times in my life but yet, I was highly impressed because I was looking at for the first time!

The latest restorations have removed the previous restorations attempt at paint and have therefore taken it back to the colors it was originally planned in. However, to the layman, the painting actually looks worse after the restoration (as most of us in our group commented on). I am not sure how far they are planning on going in the restoration--will they make it look like it was just painted yesterday at some point, or is this the end?

Obviously no pictures are allowed because of the sensitive nature of the item. However, I couldnt help but wonder what kind of damage is being done by the woman who gets on the loud speaker every 15 minutes and yells 'Please Exit' with such force you can almost feel the walls vibrate.

I bought my dutiful souviner picture and bookmark and made my way back by the various modes of transportation to Venice. A very long day but I am truly glad I was able to see one of the greatest works of art in all the world.

Record Numbers

2008-03-17T23:48:00.000-07:00

Those of you who came to visit me last year are part of an all time record....some 21 million tourists who stepped onto the island! Previous yearly estimates were in the 15 million range. Its unbelievable actually. And, sad. Why sad? Well, lest you think America is the only country to waste funds and talk out of both sides of their mouth, let me assure this is not the case---Venice, Italy does the same.

We have the endless decay and destruction that goes on here because of tourism (and the seeming lack of care or action on the part of government to do something about it), the inability of the garbage company to keep up (or so they say) with the increasing number of tourists, the incessant feeding of pigeons which in the end increases excrement and disease in the city (by the way, they havent gotten rid of the seed sellers like they said there were! no surprise there.), and the neverending debate on how to charge tourists a 'daily fee' for entering the island (because Venice is always in the red). All this and more. And what is the city government going to do now? Add hotel rooms, of course!

In order to keep up with the influx, they estimate they need at least an additional 2,500 hotel rooms by 2010. Now where they are going to put them on the island is beyond me...there isnt a spare meter of space to build on--unless, of course, you tear down the only park on the island or you sacrifice some of the historical buildings that house the last remaining Venetians to the tourist gods. Apparently, it just doesnt seem to cross their mind that 21 million visitors is more than enough....if you cant pay and keep up with what you have, then why get more?

Of course, this is the underlying theme in the housing and financial demise we are having in America.....most Europeans will tell you they dont approve of the way Americans spend without having and how they live on credit, but I offer first hand proof that we arent the only ones caught in the trap! And while I personally have no sympathy for someone who got into a 3 year ARM mortgage and is now in foreclosure because they made a greedy decision (and I will ultimately have to pay to bail them out), I am saddened that Venice the city and Venice the history will suffer because of these same type of decisions. And no one will be able to fix that in the end.

Palm Sunday

2008-03-16T04:36:00.000-07:00

Today is the beginning of Holy Week for Christians around the world. Easter Sunday is next week--as early as it can be according to the calendars. Today, I spent the morning in church at St. Georges Anglican.

We have always had palm fronds on this Sunday at my church in America, so I was a bit surprised to see olive branches today. Now, I dont really know if this is because there is easy access to palm trees in Phoenix and not so much in Venice or if there is another reason altogether, but nonetheless, we celebrated with them.

After the blessing of the olive branches (we each got one), we sang a hymn and actually left the church building and walked around outside in the campo as a symbolic processional. What a nice word picture it created for us and for all the onlookers and tourists.

On the walk home, I saw so many other people carrying olive branches around the city--some of the kids had enough that it looked like they were carrying a whole tree! It was a nice community feeling for this special day.

On Good Friday, we will have services at 1:30pm like I remember it happening when I was a kid. Its good to know that there are some places left in the world where they still honor those traditions. And, of course, next Sunday is the celebration service of Easter itself.

I wish you a blessed week and hope that however you choose to ponder the events in history, that you will be filled with peace and hope.

Favorite Pic

2008-03-14T05:09:00.000-07:00

Its always hard to pick one favorite snapshot from a vacation but I think this one has to be it for now. There were many beautiful sites to see but this sign not only caused a great guffaw of laughter but also made us pause to wonder what in the world went on that they needed to be ever so specific!

With all the drinking going on in Dublin, you would expect some issues. To be honest, I didnt see as many fights as I thought I would. I certainly saw my share of men peeing on city streets and drunken revelers vomiting their last 5 pints of Guinness on the ground. But I only witnessed two incidents that involved the police.

First, while walking along the street, there was a crowd formed around a guy on the ground. This tiny little guy who weighed less than I do had 3 policemen sitting on him (yes, sitting) and another 3-4 standing around watching the crowd. Now I have no idea what he did to cause such treatment but he must have had Herculean strength! When the paddy wagon arrived, another 5 cops came out of the back. So, in the end, we had over 10 cops needed to arrest a drunken skinny guy. Dublin's finest? Or perhaps Dublin at its finest? Who knows.

Then second incident actually startled me and I now know how I react to situations like this. It was late and we stopped into Burger King to grab a snack of french fries (more potatoes--can you believe it!). There were 3 Welsh guys there (by the end of the weekend, I was able to decipher the difference between Irish and Welsh based on features!). These guys had three of the biggest necks I have ever seen in my life. Its not that they were in great shape because the beer bellies were obvious, but the necks were HUGE. They were leaning on the counter waiting for their meals and moved ever so slightly for us to place our order. When done, we stepped back a bit and let this 20 something Irish kid stand in line behind them. Well, they weren't interested in moving for him and he apparently got too close to their personal space. One neck turned around and in record speed, threw a punch at this guys head that literally floored him. I was about 2 feet from him when he went down, let out a shrill and an 'Oh my God!". There were no words exchanged--the neck just didnt like how close this guy was to him. In the end, we got our fries and as we were leaving the injured guy was telling the manager he wanted the police called.

I certainly dont want to characterize either the Welsh or the Irish with these incidences but it isnt a great scenario for visitors. On the other hand, I saw more than this when I lived in Milwaukee so I really have to chalk up to drinking and testosterone!

Wild Wicklow Tour

2008-03-13T00:35:00.000-07:00

I have no idea why they call it the Wild Wicklow Tour...there was nothing wild about it. But it was a very nice day out in the countryside of Ireland and a nice change of pace from the rush of the city.

We were picked up in a nice motorcoach bus and since we were the first stop, we chose to trade off sitting in the front seat with the great view...never been on a bus before that had this seat.

On the way out of town, we stopped by the recording studio where U2 made their first album. The graffiti there has nothing to do with U2 but it is a designated and legal area for graffiti. Taggers and tourists alike come here to paint to their hearts content...its a constant work in progress and probably helps explain why you dont see graffiti in the city proper. Dublin is a very clean city; amazingly clean considering the activity.

Then we stopped at Sandy Cove to get a skyline view of Dublin and see the swimmers. Turns out people are swimming in this cold water every day of the year! We were also treated to a rainbow.

Finally, into the countryside, we drove through mountains and up to plateaus. We stopped at the area where Braveheart was filmed (as well as other movies) and made a visit to an ancient monastic site.

There is a tower at this monastic site and the superstition says that if you walk around the tower clockwise 3 times, you will find your husband (or wife). If you walk around 3 times counter clockwise, you will get rid of your husband (or wife)! So, always one to follow these silly things, I thought I would speed up the process by running around the tower instead of walking (you can see me counting in the pics)! I will keep you updated on that one!

Temple Bar

2008-03-12T05:07:00.000-07:00

What can one say about the Temple Bar area of Dublin? For those who havent been there, its best to liken it to the French Quarter in New Orleans (before the destruction) without all the nudity. Its pretty much non stop beer drinking. Most of the bars open around 10am and close around 3am.

When we arrived around midnight on Thursday, we crossed the street to the beginning of Temple Bar (we had a great hotel location--Westin). Temple Bar is basically about a mile long with the majority of it being one street and the various side streets. It was more than crowded but nothing compared to Friday and Saturday nights when the folks from Wales invaded the city for the big Ireland/Wales 6 Nations Rugby game (Wales won by the way). We enjoyed ourselves on Thursday but Friday and Saturday was just a bit much.

Its also the only place I have ever been where men dance together without being looked at funny and no one offers to buy you a drink (at 5 euro a beer, its not surprising). In other words, the bars in Temple Bar arent pick up joints--they are drinking joints and the Irish take their drinking seriously! So despite the fact that girls are outnumbered almost 50 to 1, its just not the boost for the ego that one would expect (or hope). They just arent that interested when there is beer around! haha

We checked it out during daylight and really didnt find much difference from the night hours....tons of people in all the bars everywhere. I stopped to have my pic taken in front of the famous namesake bar (red pic) and before you know it, a bunch of drinkers come out of the bar to have their pic taken as well--happy, friendly folk!

So, I have been to Temple Bar now and can cross that off my list of things to do in life. And I really dont need to go back to it....Dublin, yes, Temple Bar, no.

A wee bit of the Irish

2008-03-11T06:07:00.000-07:00

I have returned from Dublin. I will share some of the highlights of the trip, but first I think it necessary to get some of the basic details out of the way. You know, that stuff you read in the back of the guide books about how to get around, what things cost, the weather, etc. Ireland is big enough that I wouldnt dare make sweeping generalizations about the whole country, but here is what I learned from Dublin.

First, most cities in the world claim to have such a fantastic variety of weather but I dont know of one who can claim to have all 4 seasons in a 24 hour period! It was amazing the weather that goes on in this city and also very difficult to prepare for. Within one day, I got bright sunny skies, near hurricane level winds, rain, sleet, hail, snow and back to warm temps and sun! I thoroughly enjoyed Dublin--its a great city with much to offer and for a fleeting moment, I thought I could actually live there, but then I realized this weather thing is for the birds. I need my sun and warmth at all times! :-)

I thought the Maltese people were friendly but they got nothing on the Irish....happy folk they are. Not sure if this has to do with the fact that they drink all the time (which often crossed my mind when I lived in Wisconsin as well!) or if they are just happy to be Irish. At any rate, it was really a great atmosphere.

Now, about the prices of things. Its true--Dublin is very expensive. I ate at TGI Fridays in Prague and Malta and was going to do the same in Dublin for the fun of it but when I saw that the basic hamburger price was 19 euro (that would be $27!), I decided better of it. A pint of beer will run you about 5 euro and a cup of coffee about 3 euro. The upside is that the food and beer are all so heavy and filling, that you really only need to eat once a day.

And while we are talking about food, lets mention the complete lack of corned beef and cabbage in this city. It was the one thing I truly wanted to eat. I searched high and low but to no avail. They serve what they call bacon (american ham) and cabbage and I did enjoy it but no corned beef anywhere! I did have some Irish stew (tried the lamb one but prefered the beef one), and more potatoes than I think I person should be allowed to eat in 4 days (mashed, baked, whole, fried, crisps, etc. you name it). Not being a huge beer fan, I was reluctant to try the 'hard stuff' but when in Rome.... I was pleasantly surprised at the taste of Guinness but really had more fun making the foam mustache than drinking it!

The city itself is all abuzz all the time. Its a hugh financial and corporate town with all the big guys having offices and European headquarters there (Chase, Microsoft, etc). The roads are very busy and the amount of city buses that transport people was amazing. Hundreds and hundreds of them everywhere. They also drive on the wrong side of the road in Ireland so once again, I was always paranoid about crossing the street. Luckily, the Dubliner's decided to help me out by giving me directions of which way to look painted on the road.

And too bad you cant hear me speak on this blog, because I managed to learn a few words with a great Irish brogue...its actually harder to imitate that I thought it would be and I imagine I will soon forget what I have learned. There is only a small portion of the community who actually know the traditional Irish language so I didnt really hear it spoken at all. I did misunderstand alot more that I thought I would as well because of the accent--some of it hilarious, like playing the game of telephone.

Finally, politics. Not a day went by when someone asked me who I was voting for in the US! In the bars, in the streets, in the sauna, in the newspapers, everywhere, people are watching the US and what is happening. If nothing else, hopefully that will remind you to keep your head up and watch what you say---people are looking!

Were you born in a barn?

2008-03-06T22:29:00.000-08:00

Remember when your mom used to yell that at you as a kid when you left the door open? In the last two weeks I have come close to blurting it out in Italian many times on the vaporetto, but not sure if the direct translation would really make sense (especially since not many Venetians have barns on the island!).

Anyway, when you enter the vaporetto, there are two areas. The first is standing only and then you cross through a doorway for seats. In the summer, those doors are always open so you can get a breeze going (hopefully). In the winter, however, most people prefer the doors to be closed to avoid feeling the wind. There are no heaters or a/c units on the vaporetto so every little bit helps.

It boggles the mind when people enter the seating area and have to open the doors to do so but then just walk right on and dont close the door behind them. The other night on the way to Bible study (the day of all the bad weather), I took the number 3 bus which is a new line for only Venetians and people with monthly passes (i.e. no tourists). Because of this exclusive invitation list, its never crowded and tons of seats are available. I was in the first few rows of the seating area and somehow or other deemed myself door monitor. I must have closed it half a dozen times after people entered--each time shaking my head and looking at the last person who crossed over. These are all people who are vaporetto savvy by the nature of being on number 3, so it shouldnt be an issue, but I soon got tired of this exercise and gave up. A fellow passenger took up the reins and on the next stop, two young girls entered.

Now it was immediately obvious that they were not to be on the number 3. With pale skin, red hair, tons of freckles, wearing those cheap 1 euro rain coats you buy from the Chinese store and a look of confusion on their faces, they opened the doors and crossed through. You guessed it, they didnt close it behind them. Well, Mr. Venetian gave them a scowl and pointed at the door. These girls were so confused and impressionable, that they gave a panicked look back, turned around, went out to the standing area and closed the door behind them (how come they can do it in this direction?)! Instead of closing the door with them inside, they thought he was telling them they couldnt be in this area! Everyone started laughing in their seats at this event and no one bothered to get up and tell the girls the 'truth'.

Its obvious that closing the door behind you is not an international rule, skill or trait and from this small experiment, I doubt that I will make a dent in training anyone. Instead, I will give up my quest and prepare for my trip to Dublin today. We are not expecting the best of weather but there will be plenty of pints of Guiness to keep us warm! We return on Monday evening, so I will talk to you then.....

Let me explain....

2008-03-05T22:13:00.000-08:00

I dont think I really gave you the true impression of yesterday's weather, so I thought I would share a few more details.

I had no intention of going outside until my evening Bible study, but I got a call asking if I was going to come to the Lido for the regular Tuesday girls coffee talk. I was assured that it was bright and sunny on the Lido and I fell for it! By the time I arrived to St. Marks to catch the water bus, I knew for certain there was no sun today. The winds had picked up and the clouds were more than ominous.

We spent an hour or so at coffee and left only when bicycles outside starting blowing over in the wind. Going outside, we were greeted with a bitterly cold wind and spitting raindrops. I actually chuckled thinking that no one back home would ever believe that I would purposely go out in this weather, let alone walk around in it. And thats what happened.

We walked to my friends house (briskly mind you) and arrived just in time before my ears fell off from the cold. Then the rain came...hard, serious rain. So, we did lunch, we chatted, we read; all the while I am expecting that it will pass over enough that I can go out. Mind you, I didnt bring an umbrella because it was supposed to be sunny. Well, after about 6 hours, it didnt stop and I had no choice but to face it headon in order to make my evening committment.

My friend gave me an umbrella which had a minor wound already but it was better than nothing. I made it to the boat, got on and started the trek across the lagoon. There were whitecaps on the waves of the lagoon!!!!!!! The waves were so strong, they were coming up over the side of the vaporetto and onto the deck area!!!!!!! We missed every stop because of the waves and had to backup, move forward, get help from the people in the bus stop, etc. By the end of the 4th stop (there are 13 stops from the Lido to Rialto where I would get off), I was seriously seasick and green around the gills. My mother can attest to my weak stomach in the high seas!

I decided to get off at the 5th stop and walk the rest of the way home. The wind was wicked and there weren't many of us out there braving the elements. Unfortunately, my umbrella died in the midst of battle but gave it his all. Upon arrival at my apartment, I have him the proper burial in the trashcan.

With about 20 minutes of rest time before I had to leave for Bible study, I tried to calm my stomach and get out of my wet clothes. I really wanted to walk over there but it was too far in this weather, so I braved the vaporetto again until the closest stop.

Walking to the reverends house was like a scene out of a hollywood war movie. Carnage everywhere. Most obvious were broken umbrella arms sticking out perpendicular from the rest of them and the entire umbrella strewn on the ground where it was hit. I must have passed 10-12 of them in a short 5 minute walk. But worse than that were the pieces of the buildings lying in chunks and dust on the calle below. I finally figured out why part of the outside plaster in Venice is missing on almost every building (its also what make Venice quaint). The wind was so wicked and the rain so strong that it literally ripped off pieces of the plaster and threw them to the ground below.

By the end of Bible study, the rain had stopped but the wind was still in its fury. I was more than happy when I arrived home for the evening and could thoroughly warm up. This morning, I was timidly looking out the window to see what the day had to offer--the rain is gone and the winds have died down a bit but there is still plenty of cloud cover. I WILL be staying home today--well, except for my 3pm massage! :-)

And its gone....

2008-03-04T22:56:00.000-08:00

The sun has decided to revoke its brightness from Venice once again. After glorious hours yesterday, shining vividly and warming not only my skin but moods around me, its gone. This morning, the rain has arrived, the ground is wet and those blasted clouds are back. In the immortal words of Snoopy...curse you Red Baron!

News Flash!

2008-03-03T00:14:00.001-08:00

I just peeked my head out the window and took a double take. It actually exists! The sun is still there! After almost 2 weeks of constant fog and gloom, the sun has come back to comfort us...not sure how long it is going to be there, so I have to run now and go enjoy it...see ya!

Hope

2008-02-28T23:22:00.000-08:00

Last night I attended a very special concert here in Venice. It was a youth program. So what, you say. Well, it was a mixture of Palestinian and Israeli kids! Just two weeks ago, they didnt even know each other. At the tender age of 15, they are now travelling around Italy and playing traditional and contemporary songs from their respective homelands. They played and sang about rain, the star of Bethlehem, guests and lost love. What an amazing event!

After about 40 minutes of music, there was an intermission where the audience was able to ask questions of the kids. "Will you get to continue this music when you return home?" The answer was a resounding 'No'. They said they are not allowed to socialize with each other because of the way things are, but they hope to continue their newly found friendship via email. When asked about their experiences in the last few weeks and what they think it means, one Palestinian boy obviously in the throws of puberty spoke with his squeaky voice. He said he hopes that adults will see that they can get along and that he is one of the future men of his country and will think and strive for peace because of it. An Israeli girl then said, 'it is so complicated but we really are the same'. I dont think I have heard anything more profound than that.

I cried through most of the event and all the way home. I think I was the only person crying bit I was so touched. When it was over, the woman sitting next to me commented how nice it was and it would have been really good if the music was played better. As I stared at her with my pupils dialating in anger, I thought this is how it gets messed up. What goes wrong from the time we are 15 and innocent to the time we are adults and jaded? For 10 fifteen year old kids who just met, they played better than the Philharmonic in North Korea this week. I turned and walked away from this woman before I either slapped her or said something I shouldnt.

These kids gave me hope. They have seen more terror and war and destruction than you and I will probably ever know and that is all they know. Yet, they have the willingness to keep trying. The woman here in Venice that puts this event together said it was a small step toward peace. It may look like that on the outside, but I truly think it is bigger than that.

Peace between these two countries is not going to happen because of politicians and world leaders negotiating with hopes of getting something out of it for themselves. Its not going to happen because of the terrorists and fanatics who claim to be doing for just reasons. Its not going to happen because of the religious leaders of these countries who refuse to accept the better good of their people for the sacrifice of conciliation. And its not going to happen because the media and print refuses to tell anything good or worthy that comes from these countries but yet stubbornly reports only biased, heart bleeding stories to serve their purpose of sales. Instead its going to happen because these kids (and others like them) will go back home and tell their friends and family and classmates that the 'other side' isnt really what we see on TV and what the adults are telling us. They will hopefully start a grass roots movement that will spread as they grow up and maybe in my lifetime, I will see peace and they will live in it.

I have already had a lifetime of experiences in this year and have countless times said I hope I can remember this or that or recreate the feeling of being here or there. But I know that until the day I die, I will never forget the glimmer of hope these kids have and how they were kind enough to share it with others.

Buon Compleanno

2008-02-27T07:30:00.000-08:00

or happy birthday in english....sometime this week, 17 years ago, my best little buddy, Mr. Peabody was born! I met him when he was 8 weeks old and we have been together ever since. He is spoiled rotten, has the attitude of a crabby old man and will ensure at all costs that he has his own way. But I still love the little guy and cant imagine my year here without him. I named him Mr. Peabody after the Rocky and Bullwinkle show from my childhood...who knew what a self fulfilling prophecy that would be when I first said that I was 'his boy Sherman'!

I had some mental lapse before I moved here and thought maybe I would ship him off to a friend in Iowa to live with her, her husband and her zoo but then I came to my senses and all the paperwork came together and we are here now.

In honor of his birthday, I refilled his thyroid prescription and gave him an extra large helping of his favorite food. Oh yeah, and a few extra 'that's a good boy' comments were shared this week as well. For his part, he slept as usual and participated in what my friend calls, 'the 8 o'clock run' around the apartment!

Here's to you, Mr. Peabody!

A Trip to Trieste

2008-02-26T23:09:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, I met up with my fellow expats day trip buddies and we headed north to Trieste. Due North of Venice and on the Adriatic coast by Slovenia, Trieste has a long history and much to see. It was so much larger than I thought. I got this impression immediately when the train station looked more like an airport terminal and had a complete food/grocery store in it! Why a person would need to buy a slab of beef at the train station is beyond me, but it works for them.

We had no agenda, so started at the 'I' office (tourist information) where we somewhat patiently waited for the three people in front of us to sign their life away with the tourist card they were buying...its was such a transaction that I joked they must be signing up for the timeshare program!

With map in hand, we navigated toward the 'ancient' part of town (not to be confused with the 'old' part of town). Who knew a city could be so hilly right on the water. It was almost a 90 degree angle walk up to the church and castle (castle was closed for repairs). The mosaic inside the church was a brilliant purple and I wish I could have caught the beauty of it in the picture.

After that, we were travelling back to the bus station to catch a transfer to another castle when we passed the ruins of a colliseum--right there in the middle of the city!

On the bus, it soon became obvious to everyone that we had no idea which stop was ours to get off. Either they spoke enough English to understand us or they just saw the confusion in our faces, but before long, the entire bus was conversing about which stop to get off on, where was the best place to eat and who we should follow in order to find these things! After a while, we, the tourists, weren't really necessary because all of the locals were discussing these things amongst themselves. It was very funny and a huge treat in kindness and friendliness in a foreign town (and we all know how I love to experience that when I am away from Venice!).

We stopped to eat at a restaurant that had trees growing out the floor and through the roof and then made our way to Miramar castle which is right on the waterfront. I hear its beautiful standing on the grounds of the castle and looking at the sea lapping again the shore. The reason I say "I hear" is because we were plagued with more fog and couldnt actually see the sea. We were assured it was out there but as you can tell from the pic of me standing on the grounds with the sea in the background, it just isnt there!

Another fun day trip and more memories to stow away for those long, how summer days when I am back in Phoenix!

Foggy

2008-02-24T04:45:00.000-08:00

It was another foggy morning in Venice and I left a bit early to snap some photos on my way to church. I got a new camera and thought this was a great time to try out some of the features. Venice is such a beautiful city in color but the detail and ambience you get from seppia and black and white is incredible.

I took these around 10am and at some points by the water, you couldnt see 10 feet in front of you. By noon when I got out of church, the worst of it had evaporated but there was still fog in the air. I guess I wont see snow this year on the gondolas like I had hoped and today I couldnt even see the gondolas!

Ryan Air

2008-02-21T08:27:00.000-08:00

I mentioned earlier this week about our airline to Malta. Ryan Air is a low cost airline but it has some features that are pretty common over here in Europe and I wanted to share them with the US folks so they know how 'lucky' we are and also what is coming our way (particularly, since I just recently heard that United is starting to charge for a second suitcase now).

So, you get this incredibly cheap flight (30 euro roundtrip to Malta) but then you are nickled and dimes to death for everything else. First, you have to pay 2-3 euros per person because you booked online (even though there isnt an office or counter where you could actually buy a ticket at the airport). You are allowed one carry on luggage but there is a weight and size limit! They require you to check in online unless you want to pay a fee for in person check in. The catch is that US Citizens cant check in online because they only accept that from EU folks. So, when you get to the airport, you have to pay the in person fee (3 euro per person per way) to check in and then send a fax with your passport and flight info to the airline so they can refund you that fee for not offering you the online option in the first place. (Dont ask because I have thought endlessly about why this is standard operating procedure and have yet to come up with a decent reason.).

But lets assume you can check in online. When doing so, you have to swear on your mothers life that your carry on is below the weight limit of 10kg (22 pounds). If you get to the airport and they weigh your carryon and its over that limit, you have to pay the fee for checked luggage (9-12 euro per bag with a size and weight limit--there are no freebies in check luggage either) PLUS an additional 4 euro fee for what I like to call, 'you lied about the weight and so we are going to penalize you' fee!

There are no seat assignments but if you want to pick a seat, you can pay an additional 3 euros per person to do so. And you can also dish out an additional 7 euros per person to have priority boarding. This means you get to go through the line first but only by a few scant minutes before the rest of the riff raff is let go...and in Venice where they are genetically incapable of forming a line, this is truly a waste of money.

Once on board, there are no freebies at all...water costs money as does that disgustingly old sandwich they offer. They even ask you for 2 euro for a scratch off ticket to try to win a car. They try to play on your heartstrings by telling you its for a childrens charity, but if you read the fine print, only a portion of the 2 euros is going to the charity.

The only thing they arent yet charging for is a fee to get off the plane once you land. I dont think this will be far behind. So, next time you board a plane in the US and complain, just remember how good you have it--at least for a short while still!

Mdina

2008-02-20T12:29:00.000-08:00

Mdina (pronounced emdeena) is really the jewel of Malta. Its an incredibly small, enclosed fortress like town with only a couple hundred people living there. Its buildings are all monochrome in color and design, the streets are as narrow as Venice (the sign in the pic shows it to only be 5 feet 6 inches wide), but the quaint feeling one gets wandering around is worth the trip.

There is a lovely cathedral there (St. Pauls) with great tomb markers all over the floor.....rows and rows of them....really impressive. We saw one with chains on it and asked for information. Turns out one of the people who was buried here about 30 years ago is being sent back home to the UK. The tombs are several layers deep with most being bishops and priests but there are a few others here. It was a bit creepy seeing the chains there to lift the marble. She (one of the 3 women buried there) was leaving in a few days and then they were going to seal up the marble again.

To prove my height, I squeezed myself into a doorway in order to show how gigantic I really am!

Although we spent just a little over an hour in Mdina, it was a great time. And considering we almost didnt go because of the rain and the thought of another bus trip, I am glad we talked ourselves into it. And I am glad I went to Malta. I am so thankful for the trips I have been able to make this year and for the experiences I have had....its a lifetime of good crammed into one year!

Gozo, Malta

2008-02-19T01:09:00.000-08:00

One day, we decided to travel over to the other island of Malta called Gozo. This was the day we waited for the bus for an hour in front of our hotel. Then it was a 45 minute bumpy ride to the other side of the island where we promptly missed the ferry to Gozo by about 5 minutes. We waited almost an hour for the next ferry. In the meantime, we ran into some scuba divers....some of them were doing their first certification dives. I wish I would have had time to go with them. Its been so long since I have done a dive and the water there looked so clear.

Finally on to Gozo, the ferry ride was about 25 minutes. We heard there was a special bakery on Gozo that makes pizzas called ftira. Our concierge at the hotel knew the owners of the bakery and called our order in for a pickup. When we landed on Gozo, we got a taxi to take us to the bakery. For 5.82 euro we got two huge pizzas! We thought we were only getting one and we also thought we entered the wrong place. This bakery was literally a room filled with a brick oven and shelves (as you can see by the pic).

With pizzas in hand (literally as they didnt have boxes to carry them in), we got back in the taxi and told him to drop us off at Ramla Bay. This is the famous beach in Gozo where the sand is orange. It truly is colored orange (even though the pics dont reflect it). With no napkins, no silverware, no drinks and no place to sit, we 'copped a squat' on a rock and dug in to the pizza. Between the two of us, we finished one. There was no cheese or sauce on the pizza but there were thinly sliced potatoes. It was good, but different. Luckily, there was a family on the beach (the only other people out there with us) and they were Americans with 2 small kids. We gave them the other pizza and the crust from the first one to the stray cats hanging around.

The taxi was supposed to pick us up at 230pm but never showed. We started walking to the ferry, which turns out was directly opposite the beach on the island--about 2 miles or so, most of it uphill. We stopped at a farm to look at the donkey and the guy invited us to get closer to Colleen, so we got some pics of her. Then we trekked on where Denise used her girl scout skills and picked lemons and oranges for us to survive the hike! I was surprised at the amount of cactus I saw there..in fact, in all my years in the southwest, I never saw cactus planted the way it shows in the pic (do they really do that?) The wild flowers were all starting to bloom, so at least we had scenery as we walked. It was a long hike and with about 10 minutes before the ferry was leaving and no chance of making it, I threw out my thumb and hitched a ride (never done that before in my life--sorry mom and dad!)....it was me or the knee at that point. A nice kid who was going to meet his sister at the ferry took us the last bit and we arrived with about 2 minutes to spare.

When we arrived back at the hotel, we went directly to happy hour to celebrate our non conventional but interesting and cultural fun day in Gozo.

Buses and Balconies

2008-02-18T03:12:00.000-08:00

There are two things that really stand out in Malta. The buses and the wooden balconies. First, the buses are a hoot. They are super old and most of them are living biological experiments! They used to be different colors to symbolize the route they were driving. I think as time went on, some of them went to bus heaven and what is left is what is driven. The streets are herrendously filled with potholes and there are no shocks left whatsoever on the bus. You get a carnival ride and a bus ride for the price of one.

As far as being on time, dont count on it. They dont always stop at every stop and sometimes they spend longer at one than the next. The fare is 47 cents for a trip (1.16 if you are crossing the island) and you pay as you step on the bus. Needless to say, it doesnt take long before you have amassed a large collection of 1 and 2 cent coins as change. The bus driver is also your cashier and when he is finished giving the last of the change, then he can drive.

One day we waited over an hour for a bus. It came by once (about 15 minutes late) but wouldnt stop because he said he was full. So then we waited for the next which should have been within a half hour but because you cant count on it, it was more like 45 minutes. After all that, I would have paid 5 euro just to get on and go somewhere!

As for the balconies, almost every home (i.e 2 story apartment) has one. Why they are made of wood and enclosed is beyond me. They arent really wide enough to have any furniture out there. Some are painted, some arent, some have peeling paint, some dont. There is a writeup I found online about it but my guidebook didnt seem to share any info, so take it for what it is worth.

http://www.geocities.com/f_scicluna/Balconies.html

Regardless of the reason, it certainly is a unique architectural design and even in its rundown state, is eyecatching.

Home from Malta

2008-02-17T09:16:00.000-08:00

I am back. As usual, it was tons of fun. There is so much to see in this world and even when its not what you expect, its still good. And Malta was not what I expected. Because its an island and touted as a summer beach destination, I had an idea in my head. After reading the guide book, I tweaked my idea a bit. But when I showed up on the city streets, I was still surprised. Surprised, not disappointed.

Malta has a long history going back some 7,000 years according to the 'experts'. The pagan temple ruins we saw were dated some 3,500 years ago. There is a strong Arabic influence heard in the language and street names. There is also a plethora of evidence showing the some 16,000 tons of bombs that hit the island during WWII. And finally, there is a strong English influence as it was most recently under British rule up until around the 1960's. It is now an independent country and seems to live pretty harmoniously with its colorful history.

Is it another Amalfi Coast or Mexican Riviera? Absolutely not. Yes, I stayed in a 5 star hotel (for cheap) and there were several to pick from, but I got the impression that Malta is rather poor and really banking on being part of the EU and Schengen now to grow into itself.

The people are incredibly nice (which we all know is much appreciated by me after being in Venice). There is relatively no crime in the city and I think a simple handshake is better than any piece of paper for the Maltese. They are, for me, rather a small people. I passed so many men and women who were barely 5 feet tall if that. I felt like a giant!

Our hotel was great and we even got a free upgrade to a junior suite! There was a fantastic American breakfast every morning and I got my fill of 'orange' cheese (i.e. cheddar) after not having any for so long. We hung out in the spa alot with a great pool, jacuzzi and atmosphere. I have included a few pics from the hotel and view from our patio.

The airline (RyanAir) was what most of us in AZ would know to be like a SouthWest Airlines. Absolutely no frills. In fact, they dont even have a seatback pocket to put their monthly magazine in. When they announced they were going to pass out the magazine, the attendant pulled down about 5 copies. Obviously, they were all gone before crossing 2 rows...I was very amused by this cost saving measure. But they got us there on time with no issues and in the end, that is what is really important.

In the next few days, I will share some of the highlights and pictures (I actually took about 350!). In the meantime, I am back to doing some laundry and starting to prepare for my Dublin adventure in about 3 weeks! Gotta love what this world has to offer!

What to say.....

2008-02-11T07:24:00.000-08:00

Tomorrow I leave for Malta for a few days and thought I better check in with the world one last time before I go. However, I didnt really have much to say as I have been home most of the week resting my knee. I thought I would wait until after my massage today and see if that gave me anything great to talk about (because they always do). And I was not disappointed. Another interesting day on the table.....

I had it in my mind that I was going to ask for a massage only on my back in order to alleviate any knee uprisings. But as soon as I told her I had fallen, she started asking all sorts of questions. How does one say strained PCL ligament in Italian anyway? (That is, by the way, what I have self diagnosed myself with after hours of web surfing.) Well, she was not going to have anything to do with only half a massage. She checked out my knee from top to bottom--pushing, pulling and all the time asking 'dolo?' meaning does it hurt there. When she narrowed it down, I was instructed up on the table and she went away only to come back with some brownish green mixture in a bowl. She slathered this all over my knee and then went to work on my other leg with the massage.

After a while she had made her way up to my stomach. This is still something that is foreign to me (no pun intended). And then she asked if I was sick today? I realized she has been doing a bit more than a massage. She told me she was a doctor (what that means I dont really know) and she noticed something wrong. I smiled and told her I only had one ovary (how does one say oopherectomy in Italian) and to notice the scar on my stomach. She thought I had had a kid. So, next thing you know, she is giving me the once over in the stomach/female region just as impressed as can be. 'Complimenti' she kept saying about the work done on the inside...she asked where I had the surgery and told me it is very difficult to do such things over here in Italy. It was the first time my massage gal became my ob/gyn....what a surreal moment that was.

Anyway, she finally flipped me over and started working on the back of the legs. She picked up my injured leg slightly and bent it slightly and then told me to relax! Well, that was a waste of about 10 minutes...how can one relax when they dont know what is going to happen to their injured part....it was funny...we were both laughing. I would relax and then she would move just the tiniest of bits and I would tense up again. She gave up in the end.

Then she wiped off the mask from my knee and gave me the ingredients for the concoction to make myself and I am to do it every day for an hour. It has arnica in it. I never heard of arnica till I came over here. Its very popular (along with potassium--everyone takes potassium pills--including my cat now!). When I first fell, the Italian in the room gave me some arnica and the American gave me a tylenol with codeine! After the mask was off, she slathered on like half a bottle of this arnica stuff on my knee and worked it in and told me not to shower today.

The mask worked great...my knee truly hasnt felt this good in a long, long time. I am hoping Malta is easy to get around because I am pretty sure I am not taking arnica and the rest of the stuff with me. Worse case scenario, I can buy it over there if need be. But, I think I might have finally turned the corner in healing. And I am sure you are glad about that as well because I know I am tired of hearing myself talk about it...so I can only imagine what you are saying! Or as my mother told me the other day with great love and conviction, 'get over it'!

Canal Work

2008-02-08T02:43:00.000-08:00

I was out getting a bit of exercise for my knee and came across some canal work. Actually, I think they were fixing the side of building but it was so close to the canal that they had to drain it in order to complete the work. I am still fascinated at this ecosystem they call Venice.

From the pictures, hopefully you can see how much water was drained out and really how shallow the canals are in general. I dont think anyone could drown in them but rather they would probably die from the putrid mess they are sloshing around in!

Laundry

2008-02-07T03:34:00.000-08:00

The last of my official scheduled guests has left and I think I am 'alone' for the rest of my time here in Venice. Of course, that doesnt mean I am bored...there are trips planned, organization that needs to be done for the journey home and work on getting employed once I am there. In the meantime, however, I have had lots of laundry this week.

In fact, I had 7 loads...between sheets, towels and dirty clothes, I did laundry for almost 14 hours! I actually had to stop for one day because I ran out of room of places to hang things for drying (there are very few dryers in this country). This is a such a interesting phenomenon over here. My neighbor across the way does laundry daily as it is a small family. I understand why now. If you wait until the end of the week like we do in the US, you may not be able to go out at all!

But, everything is done and clean and I am feeling accomplished. And for those of you who are wondering why I am so inefficient at laundry I have attached pics of my washing machine. Putting in 2 sheets is pushing the limit, so you can see why it takes so long. That and one load on a regular wash cycle is about 1 hour and 40 minutes. The gentle cycle comes in right at about an hour. This is one of those things that I dont think I will be missing when I return home.

Pancake Dinner

2008-02-06T02:20:00.000-08:00

Some things in life are fun just because. And one of those things is having breakfast for dinner. So when the Reverend told me that he and his wife were hosting a traditional English pancake dinner in honor of Shrove Tuesday, how could I say no?

Now, these weren't the pancakes that I know....I would probably call it more like a crepe. And the toppings werent anything you find at IHOP either! The traditional way is to squeeze lemon on it and then sprinkle a bit of sugar, roll it up and cut into tasty bitesize pieces. However, I was lucky enough to have some other Americans show up and they brought some Vermont maple syrup! Now thats good!

And turns out I really had no idea what Fat Tuesday and Shrove Tuesday meant. Its probably a good thing that I didnt get the obvious meaning of Fat Tuesday all these years, because I dont really need the extra pounds. Basically, a time to clear out your kitchen and pantry of all the food and eat it up. Shrove Tuesday has a bit more of a religious tone to it with the idea being that you confess before you confess on Ash Wednesday....not sure I really understand that either.

I imagine back in the day Fat Tuesday and Shrove Tuesday were one in the same and over time the original religious meaning has been distorted. Regardless of that, I was just happy to get some pancakes for dinner last night.

The Last Day

2008-02-05T00:31:00.000-08:00

Today is Shrove Tuesday (aka Fat Tuesday in America!) and marks the last day of Carnivale. For my first experience, I was not disappointed. However, I did feel it was lacking in some areas and after reading my online weekly Venice newspaper this morning, I know that I am not alone.

It seems that attendance was way down this year (which is amazing as I was walking around with all those people to think that there could actually be MORE people here). The first day attendance was down by some 70,000. There are various reasons that have already been proposed.

First, the weather. I dont buy it because I doubt that many people decide to go to Carnivale within 2 days of leaving. The weather was decent until the last few days when the rain came. Second, the world economy. This I buy. My friend, the atelier (costumer designer) told me that she didnt have a single American customer this year and that is usually a strong base in her sales. Its just too expensive right now. Third, the agenda wasnt released until a few days before. I doubt this had a huge impact but it was certainly annoying for even me. I have to chalk that up to 'Venetian time'...they are never in a hurry to do anything. The person in charge, Marco Balic, will no doubt take the brunt of the blame and for my part, I think he did a poor job on capturing the spirit of Carnivale.

I expected more traditional events and atmosphere. Instead, there were too many Halloween costumes and reggae bands around. One would hope that as Venice slowly dies it could hold on to its heritage and its proud history a bit more than it showed during Carnivale. And with this point, the Venetians and I agree.

I am glad I was here and I would like to come back another time and 'do it up right' with the full costume and ball. And I will, right after I win the lottery!

A Few More Carnivale Pics

2008-02-02T04:16:00.000-08:00

We donned our masks and capes one last time yesterday (as it is raining all day today)....I have decided to wear the mask continuously for the next 3 months while I am still here because people move out of your way! Its like the parting of the Red Sea.....makes travelling through the masses so less stressful!

A Rainy Day in Ravenna

2008-01-31T23:48:00.000-08:00

Ever have one of those days when things just dont go your way? Well, yesterday was my turn. I wont go into the details but suffice to say it all started with the 4am alarm to get up so we could make the 6am train to Ravenna. According to the weather, it was supposed to sprinkle in the morning and that was it. In reality, it remained incredibly foggy all day and rained steadily until after lunchtime. Getting lost in Ravenna in the rain with the pain in my knee (I really do think I have created a weather indicator) was not the highlight either!

However, things finally started to fall into place and we did get to see the famous mosaics in the city. For those of you who have seen St. Marks Basilica here in Venice, you know the mosaics are mostly all gold. In Ravenna, they are all other brilliant colors. The pictures really dont express the colors justly.

We had a nice lunch at a local restaurant (ironically called Bella Venezia!) and met some really nice Ravennan's. Its always a pleasure to escape the rudeness of Venice for a bit and be around people who smile and have manners. By the end of the day however, my knee won the war and it was time to rest. I am glad to have seen it and I am glad to be back!

More Carnivale Pics

2008-01-28T06:18:00.000-08:00

Today, we were just normal tourists milling around. We went out early and headed down to the Arsenale area and stumbled across a load of costumed people with professional photographers around. My father had once sent me a powerpoint presentation of Carnivale in 2005 and now I understand how it got put together!

I have come to the conclusion that these people are probably Venetians and work for the Carnivale production....to kind of kick start the celebration and give it a more festive atmosphere. They are wearing costumes that I dont see in any of the Atelier (costume designers) stores...they sell mostly 1700 and 1800 style dress. And, these costumed people are all very small boned and somewhat short--another reason to assume they are Venetian.

But they certainly are a sight to see....enjoy

Paparazzi and Carnivale

2008-01-27T07:16:00.000-08:00

So today we donned our masks and capes and went walking amongst the hords of people in St. Marks. And I do mean HORDS OF PEOPLE! Take the height of summer season and add a couple thousand more for good measure! The great thing about wearing a costume is that people tend to move out of your way because they want to get your picture. Now, I was by no means anywhere near the best dressed out there but I think the height of my mask added a certain something something that you dont see everywhere.

I do know now that I am quite certain I dont want to be a famous person. Its really an odd feeling when people want you to stop to take your picture. I was glad that my entire face was covered because I wasnt sure what to do. There was one point where we stopped for a few Japonese and ending up standing there for a good 3-4 minutes. People just kept coming from everywhere--some to take pics, some to have their pics taken with me. There was even a professional camera (there are several documentaries and movies being filmed right now) on me at one point. And there was this one man who was getting so many pics of me from all angles--it was disconcerting and strangely fun all at the same time!

And then there are those people who dont understand what to wear for Carnivale and are dressed like its Halloween in America...I have included some pics for you so you can see the right way and the wrong way! And I have also included a pic so you can see the vast sea of people who are milling about during these days. They have descending on the city and will be here for another week. For my part, I will go out again in costume...its much easier to get around than when you are just a tourist!

T Minus 2 and Counting

2008-01-23T05:16:00.000-08:00

Carnival in Venice officially starts on Friday and will last until February 5. The swarms of people are starting to arrive today and tomorrow for the big event of the year. There was a quiet before the storm atmosphere yesterday as I was walking around and today you can feel the buzz starting.

Every day is filled with various events around the city. This years theme is Sensation: 6 Senses in 6 Sestieri (there are 6 sestieri or districts on the island). The sixth sense in this case is the brain as a whole. http://www.carnevale.venezia.it/

There are also several traditional balls to attend if one has the money. The most famous is called the Il Ballo del Doge. It costs about 800 euros to attend and that doesnt include the cost of the required 18th century Venetian costume that you must wear (rentals start at about 800-1000 euro for a 24 hour period). However, there is word that George Clooney will be at this ball, so it doesnt really seem all that expensive now!

Carnival started in Venice and has traversed the world in various forms. The US has Mardi Gras, Germany has Fasching, and almost every country has its own name. But, like most traditions, the original meaning has been long lost. The name Carnival comes from the Latin meaning Farewell, meat! and obviously has to do with fasting around the Lent tradition in Catholicism.

The history of the Venice Carnival tradition began after 1162. The Republic defeated Ulrico, Patriarch of Aquileia in that year, and began a tradition of slaughtering a bull and 12 pigs in the Piazza San Marco around Shrove Tuesday to commemorate the victory. This celebration gradually grew and 1268 dates the first document mentioning the use of masks. Masks made the Venetian Carnival unique. If you cannot identify the wearer of the mask, you do not know his social status and this made Carnival accessible and celebrated by all.

The eighteenth century was the heyday of Carnival. Venice's decline in power was accompanied by a conspicuous consumption of pleasure. This is probably the image that most of the world has of the Venetian Carnival--spurred on my Hollywood movies, of course!

Carnival's significance declined gradually through to the 1930s, when Mussolini banned it. In 1979, a group of Venetians and lovers of Venice decided to revive the tradition. Within a few years, the image of the masked reveller had become a worldwide icon of Venice in winter.

And in just a few days, I will don my mask and cape and roam around with the rest of the revelers pretending we are in another time. For all my time in Venice, this is my first Carnival and I am so looking forward to the activities--even if it does mean an excess of tourists!

The Cashier Nazi Strikes Again

2008-01-22T04:03:00.000-08:00

The neverending saga of the Billa grocery store continues. Today we had a 'great' interaction.

The woman in front of me decided that she didnt want any cardboard boxes in her sack so she proceeded to take out the Swiffer pads and put them in a fruit plastic bag...she did the same with her pre-packaged fake croissants, etc. Then she asked the cashier to throw away all the cardboard. As she was standing there taking her time to pack, the cashier asked her neighbor cashier for two 5 euro bills in exchange for a 10. Then she started checking my groceries.

Now keep in mind, the total conveyor belt for each line is about 3 feet long...there is barely enough room for your own groceries, let alone when the person before you is still sacking theres and the cashier is shoving yours in with the bunch. The cardboard lady drops her bag of oranges and starts pushing me and my cart around so that she can get them. I am trying to keep my groceries separated from hers so she doesnt accidently pack them. Basically, it was chaos.

My bill comes to 15.78 euro. I give her a 50 (which is just asking for trouble, I know) and with one hand on my wallet, I turn it over into the other hand and pour out the change in hopes of getting her some coins. I hold out my hand for her take the 80 cents and she tells me my hand is too high up and she refuses to reach for it. Trust me, my hand was well below her eye level. With a heavy sigh, I put the coins on the counter for her to take them and then use my free hand to start packing my groceries. (By the way, this is the cashier that has repeatedly tried to overcharge me, so we already have a history together--no love lost here).

I am thinking we are great. She needs to give me 35 euro and 2 cents in change and I am outta there. Except that she saw I also had a 5 euro bill (I hate how they are always looking in your wallet). She wanted me to give her the 5 euro bill so she would give me 2 twenty bills back (and the 2 cents). I told her no. I knew she had 2 5 euro bills that I just saw her change and I could see she had a drawer full of 1 euro and 2 euro coins. There was plenty for her to make change for me. And how long does she expect to go without getting more change from the office anyway....this is the part that boggles the mind. If you are low on change, you ask your boss and you change for a 100, right?

Well, needless to say she was less than pleased with my response. She starts telling me she cant make change for the 50 and she has seen my 5, blah blah blah. I tell her I have seen her 5 also and she can give it to me. (Now, why I did this is beyond me....I wasnt looking to pick a fight but when she did the whole bit about not being able to see the coins in my hand, I lost all decorum--who knew I was so close to the edge!). She starts talking to the fellow cashier to tell her to tell me in English that she needs my 5. I tell her I dont need her to tell me in English. Then she starts talking to the lady behind me in line about dumb Americans who come here and cant speak the language and dont know how to do anything, blah blah , blah....I look at her with my most evil look, and tell her that I understand her completely. She was a bit surprised, I will have to say but it wasnt enough for her to give in.

In the end, I threw the 5 euro at her and she commented about how rude I was. They already think Americans are loud and rude in general, so be it far from me to disappoint her. I got my change, walked away biting my tongue and then watched her lean over to the next cashier again and get more change from her!!!!!!!!!!! She did it for spite!

Well, God bless her....I hope she sleeps better tonight knowing that she got the upper hand with another foreigner. I will deal with my guilt for my behavior and do my best to not stir the pot again, but somehow or other, I am pretty sure this isnt the last of these experiences for me and Billa.

A Weekend in Cologne

2008-01-21T11:40:00.000-08:00

I am back from a great whirlwind trip to Germany to see my brother and sister in law. The weather was amazingly good..about 50 degrees but very windy. Its actually colder here in Venice! My knee is my knee...slow but sure. Still limping and still hurts but making progress. My sister in law gave me some gel to put on it....its called 'schmerz-und entzundungshemmendes' which I think translates to 'secret german formula that takes away the pain and lets you sleep at night'!

Saturday we went to an underground exhibition/restoration of an old Roman Praetorium (big house for rich Romans). They discovered it after the war as they were starting to rebuild the city (as you can tell from the black and white photo). They have only excavated half of it in length and a small bit in height (this you can tell from the darker portions on the bottom right of the model picture). Its huge and pretty impressive. I was actually amazed that they 'covered' it over and built the city again on top of it.

After that, we went to the chocolate museum! Now thats my style--three floors of nothing but chocolate, free samples and a gift shop....if 'schmerz-und entzundungshemmendes' doesnt help, chocolate will! You would be surprised at the combinations of flavors they put in chocolate. There was so much to buy...as it was, I tried to limit it to gifts (and I am staring at them right now as I type so I wont say who they are for in case they never arrive!).

For dinner, my sister in law cooked beef rouladen (my favorite) on Saturday and pork schnitzel on Sunday. She is a fabulous cook and I was sad when the catering performance (as my brother calls it) was over!

On Sunday, we went to the philharmonic. I have to say I have never been. Classical music was never much my thing and I cant read music and am tone deaf, but I truly enjoyed myself. We had fabulous seats, the acoustics were wonderful and the energy and emotion from the musicians and conductor was enthralling. I am now a bit more cultured and am actually looking forward to doing it again.

After the concert, we went to the Cathedral. This is the 3rd largest in the world (I was surprised to find out the largest was in NY City). It truly is breathtaking in its own right. There is no way to get a picture that would do it justice. I did not, obviously, climb the stairs of the tower (by the way, there are 509 steps, not 300 like I thought). Its a shame because I bet the view of the Rhine and the city is something from up there. Inside the church is not nearly as impressive as the outside, but there is a large golden shrine that is said to hold the remains of the Three Wise Men.

And today, I am back...put some more 'schmerz-und entzundungshemmendes' on and will take it easy until my visitor arrives on Friday.

Weather Report

2008-01-17T09:33:00.000-08:00

As I am still lying here watching Fox News and the weather going on in the US, I cant really complain about winter here in Venice. Who would think that I would be having better weather than Atlanta?! However, I am getting a bit tired of the rain. This must be how the people in Portland feel! What I want is a good solid downpour...you know, a monsoon rain...this constant spitting for days on end is annoying.

Of course, I havent really been outside to experience the rain, but from my window, this is the impression I get! The knee is significantly better in a week but by no means healed. I walk with a slight limp and very slowly. I think the extra humidity in the air has something to do with the healing process. I bet I have created a lifetime weather indicator in my knee now...what great stories I will be able to tell every year when it rains in Phoenix...well, ok, just, when it rains in Phoenix!

But I am still a stubborn German and I am heading to my motherland tomorrow as planned. I am actually thinking of getting a cane to help me walk (not to mention the special treatment I might get at the airport!). I told my brother we will have to make many beer rest stops this weekend and amazingly so, he was ok with it!

Back on Monday with some pics of me climbing the 300 steps to the top of the cathedral (NOT!).

The End of the Internet

2008-01-15T02:15:00.000-08:00

Today is day 6 of the injury and healing process. The ankle bounced back quickly and that is great news because the knee is not so keen on doing the same and I kinda need my other leg for walking! I sure dont heal as fast as I used to in my 30's! haha

Since Saturday afternoon, I have pretty much been lying on the couch or in bed resting. I went to church on Sunday (in the rain), was out for about an hour on Monday (it was a beautiful sunny day and I was going stir crazy) and today, I went to the grocery store. People have offered to help me but I am stubborn (also known as stupid) and today's jaunt to the grocery store pretty much did me in. Dont get me wrong, I am getting better, but its really a slow process. I am leaving Friday for Germany to see my brother over the weekend, so I am hoping for the best in the next few days.

But as I am lying around here, I am working on the computer alot. I have accomplished a great deal of 'work' that needs to be done and I think I have come perilously close to the end of the internet in my surfing excursions! Who knew this could happen?! I have also experienced the intense heat of having your laptop sit on your lap for hours at a time---and dont think I havent pondered whether or not I have one of those combustible batteries?!

As far as news for most of you out there, I have also made a decision and purchased my ticket to return to Phoenix in May. Bittersweet decision but no regrets.

So, now I am off to pop some more advil and settle back into the impression I have made on my couch.......

The Curtain Closes

2008-01-12T03:20:00.001-08:00

The show is over. It was a huge success. Last night's finale was a packed house and great audience participation. We had a blast. And in the end, we raised almost 4,000 euro for the charity....we were hoping for 2,000!

The party was great...I made it up the 82 steps again, with only a brief rest half way. Lots of great munchie snack foods, prosecco and wine. It was a veritable gathering of famous people...opera star, international singer, famous painters, well published authors....I was rubbing elbows with all of them! And I love the question, "What do you do?". Its always good for a raised eyebrow and discussion when I tell them 'nothing' or 'I am having a mid-life crisis'!

And to celebrate today, I went shopping! As you remember, the big sales started on the 6th and because I have been so wrapped up in the pantomime and injuring myself, I havent been able to take a peek. Well, I hobbled along in my favorite store and made those girls work for their money by sending them back to check sizes, etc. It was a good shopping trip for me and the store!

And now, I am going to rest for a few days and give my knee and my ankle a break....a much needed break.

I SAID....The Show Must Go On!

2008-01-11T00:17:00.000-08:00

So, yesterday was the first day of live performances....one in the morning and one in the evening. After I got ready in the morning, I was walking downstairs from the bedroom to the living room and it dawned on me that I have been here a little over 8 months and I havent fallen down any stairs yet! That's pretty impressive......for those of you who have been here, you know the odds are against you that you will eventually fall down the stairs somewhere in this city. Well, we all know where this is going, right?

I get to the auditorium and we are doing some last minute things before the show. I am taking the pies to backstage (you know, the proverbial pie in the face routine) and I totally biff it on the stairs. The good news is I saved the pies. The bad news is I sprained by right ankle and my left knee! The variety of jokes set in....how I took 'break a leg' seriously and that the director was wearing purple and that is apparently bad luck...in the end, I tripped!

But I am German and we are hearty stock, so I perservered! I got a variety of drugs from the cast members (who will remain nameless to protect them!) to get me through and in between shows I went home to rest. It was so much worse in the evening and walking across Venice with two bum legs is not my idea of fun. I made it through most of the evening show before I raised the white flag. A long walk home and a somewhat restful evening (except when I moved and the pain woke me up!) and here I am today.

One more show tonight and then the cast party...I am staying home all day until the show. I think I can make the show but I am really worried about those 82 steps up to the apartment I told you about for the cast party......and, no, I am not going to miss the party! What was that blog I did about being a dumb American? Hmmmmmmm

P.S. The show is free but they are taking donations for Share and Care Italia....so far we have raised about 1500 euro...

The Show Must Go On!

2008-01-09T08:47:00.000-08:00

So, last night as I was walking home from my dinner with the English and contemplating how dumb I was, the pantomime was falling apart. Our lead (Dick Whittington--who is traditionally played by a woman) called to say she was in the hospital. You see, she is about 6 months pregnant and started bleeding last night. I understand that all will be OK, but obviously, she cant do the show!

So, in steps a true team player and a professional. She is a singer and has done commercials (a recent Honda one) and concerts all over the world. Talk about luck! With script in hand, she gave it her all.

By the afternoon dress rehearsal (all costumes on), she had memorized quite a bit. Since a pantomime is supposed to be amateur, slap stick comedy, I think it adds to it for her to have her script in hand on stage, but she might just memorize it all tonight before the first performance tomorrow morning!

I have included a few pics of the dress rehearsal.....

Dumb American?

2008-01-08T22:43:00.001-08:00

Today is my third day in a row getting up to an alarm...ugh! Dress rehearsals are going well and I am excited to see it all put together on Thursday for the first show. Last night, the director/writer invited me to dinner after the rehearsals---and no, this isnt a casting couch blog!

SHE and her husband are expats who have lived in Venice for about 8 years. After the climb of 82 stairs (can you imagine doing that every day?) to their top floor apartment, I got the grand tour. What a beautiful, old apartment...so much character, art and depth in there...it was like stepping back into the 18th century. They have a terrace with the most breathtaking view of the city.

Also invited was the pianist for the show. We settled down to some prosecco and conversation before dinner. The writer is English, the pianist is English and the husband is American but he has lived in Europe for so long, he might as well be English! haha And then there's me. Our conversations were all over the board....solving all the worlds problems, etc. But a strange thing happened to me--not often at a loss for words, I soon realized I wasnt quite as versed in these topics as they were.

Now, by no means were they lording over me but I did feel less intelligent than they. It was a delightful evening but I just dont know as much about 18th century art and classical music and world affairs as perhaps I should. On my walk home, I was feeling a bit dumb...that stereotypical American who doesnt know their geography and uses way too much slang!

However, this morning, I realized that I have learned something. I learned a bit more about the world last night and I learned there is so much more to learn. And with that thought, I can greet the day with my head held high as an American!

It's Showtime!

2008-01-07T09:04:00.001-08:00

Well, almost. Today was the first day of rehearsals for the Pantomime later this week. It was tons of fun except for the part of how I was there at 9am, left at 5pm and had an hour for lunch. That brings back bad memories of something I used to do called work! I am certainly not interested in that again anytime soon! :-)

At any rate, I am scene changer (mostly because I am tall enough to reach up and flip the scenes over the boards). We started setting up right away and at 11am, the kids who are playing the rat parts came in for practice! After lunch, the rest of the crew did their first run through of lines. Its really rather funny in parts and just a good, lighthearted event.

Thursday there are 2 shows and one on Friday. Then we have a cast party afterwards. Its just like show business. Admission is free but they are taking donations to support a local childrens charity in the area. All in all, I am really glad I am a part of it.

We're not done yet!

2008-01-03T06:30:00.001-08:00

So, its the 3rd of January and I imagine that most of you have returned to work now and have already looked when the next holiday is! (For those of you not in government or school, sit tight, I think its May). The stores have had their clearance sales and I imagine Target already has Valentines stuff out as soon as you walk in the door.

But, here in Venice, its not over. We still have Befana on January 6. Befana is a witch who brings candy or coal to kids stockings during the middle of the night. Of course, there is that resemblance to St. Nicks Day in America on Dec 6, right? But after reading about the legend, its kinda creepy!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Befana

All the witches and stockings are out in the stores for purchase and although she has a smile and my floor may need sweeping, I think I might pass on this one. Lord knows I dont need any more candy in my life right now (or coal for those of you thinking that way!).

After Befana, Venice will have its clearance sales and the decorations will all finally come down. That gives them a solid 2 weeks to get ready for Carnival on January 25!

p.s. it snowed here today! well, about 100 snowflakes but they were definitely real!

Happy New Year

2008-01-01T02:39:00.000-08:00

We have arrived at the begining of a new year! Its frought with anticipation and optimism and.....silliness.

While I am not a superstitious person, there are a few things here in Venice that make me smile. First, it apparently was very necessary to wear red underwear out last night for good luck (although most mothers would just want them clean, right?!). Then there is the part about how they throw out the old (literally) in order to make room for the new. Some people are more symbolic and throw out the calendar or the newspaper but I read that in the past, some have thrown out appliances and other large items! And we shouldnt forget the important chain of events that must happen for a woman in order to have a year of good luck. Upon wakening, the first person she sees must be a man or all deals are off. Its 1145am and I am still waiting to hear a mans voice outside my window so I can look at him! I am pretty sure seeing a neutered male cat isnt the same. Finally, in about 1/2 hour the annual dip into the Adriatic Sea by the local polar bear club is about to commence on the Lido. I probably should have gotten myself ready to go see that event and take some pics but I was so torn with not seeing a woman, that I seem to be held hostage in my own apartment! Or perhaps its just that what you do on the first day of the year is supposed to indicate how you will spend the rest of your year.....relaxing and enjoying the day sounds so much more enticing than standing in 34 degree weather on the beach--at least for me!

Whatever you do for your traditions or superstitions, make it a great day! Happy New Year to you all!

Reminder

2007-12-30T00:38:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was a full day of work. The city is filling up with visitors for the New Year. When I left the apartment at 9am, it was a balmy 27 degrees and when I returned in the evening at 730pm, it was an even balmier 32! I had 4 check-ins yesterday and while that doesnt sound like alot, you have to add in the time for meeting, greeting, waiting, explaining, walking, etc. All that to say I slept well last night.

But I had a thought yesterday that has stuck with me and was the first thing I thought of when I awoke this morning. As much as I realize that I am so lucky and blessed to be living in this city, I too sometimes lose sight of it when I am going from A to B. Keeping that childlike wonder isnt always the easiest thing to do.

As I was waiting for my second checkin, I had some time to view the scenery that I often pass by. I saw beauty that I hadnt seen before and I had some great moments spent with the local hospital cat! My clients arrived and we started off toward their apartment. I heard the accent but it wasnt until we were filling out the contract that I realized they were Russian. It dawned on me that these are the first Russians I have ever met in my life. You dont really come across many in the deserts of Arizona!

While it may not seem like such a big deal, I am still awestruck this morning that I was sitting in Venice and talking to a native Russian family (in English of course, not Russian!). Thats something that just doesnt happen to a person everyday. Its events and memories like that I hope I never lose sight of.

New Years Eve in Venice

2007-12-29T11:28:00.000-08:00

Well, in just a few days, another year will be ending. It will be my second time in Venice in as many years. Last year I 'experienced' New Years Eve and really dont want to see that again. I dont know if it was a regular theme but there were thousands of free bottles of champagne given out to the revelers in St. Marks Square and at the stroke of midnight, everyone started throwing their bottles on the ground...it was like a war zone! What a waste of alot of champagne to boot!

This year, the theme is called LoVe and according to Bongiorno Venezia, 'it will doubtless be something very original, since lots of couples will be involved in kissing each other in St. Mark's Square, from 10:45 p.m. until the stroke of midnight. There is a double aim: getting into Guinness World Records and transmitting Venetian New Year's Day during TV news all over the world, like what happens in New York, Paris, London and Sidney. For this unusual event, the choreographer and staging director Doung Jack, who realised the mass movements for some Olympics ceremonies, will be available in order to make the show as much more impressive. He will have to direct almost 60,000 people, the expected number those who will be in St. Mark's Square on December 31st.'

So, for those of you near a TV, see if you see me and let me know...for the rest of you, you can watch the webcam of St. Marks Square and I will wave to you!

http://www.comune.venezia.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/893

Strike!

2007-12-27T03:06:00.000-08:00

I remember as a kid, my father was part of a Union and they went on strike. While I wasnt there in person, I heard about the picket line and the signs and the negotiations. In the end, it was resolved as best these things can be and work went on. Since then, strikes have increased in the US but they are mostly done to instigate communication and negotiation. Some last less than a day because people start negotiating at the threat and others (like the current writers strike) go on for weeks.

But here in Italy, strikes happen randomly, sometimes without much notice and mostly with no change whatsoever to policy or pay. You might have heard about the one last month with the drivers. That went on for a little over a week and I heard that some gas stations closed because they were out of fuel. I am not sure anything else came of this activity (i.e. did they negotiate and get a deal?) Recently, there have been a few other transportation strikes that have lasted a day or less. The train people didnt work one day and the boat people another day. Well, I should clarify...some of the train people and some of the boat people. And Alitalia (the airline) is pretty consistent about having a one day strike at least every month or so. These Italian strikes amuse me--its not always all the workers across the board and it can last for just a few hours--the next day, its like it never happened and nothing has been gained.

Today, I went to the post office to mail a card (local address). I was told I couldnt buy a stamp because there was a strike today! Keep in mind, the post office is open and people are working, so I dont really know what part of their services they are striking about? She directed me to the tobacco shop (which sells stamps and lottery tickets along with cigarettes and candies). I went to the closest one, bought my stamp and went back to the post office to drop my letter in the box. I did notice that you are able to mail packages today and do a variety of other activities at the post office but definitely not buying stamps. I cant say whether there is mail delivery today or not either....I am assuming because it has to do with postage stamps, they wont go out today (but this is only an uneducated guess based on my experiences with strikes in this country)!

Here is another uneducated guess on my part......I have had enough discussions with Italians to know they rarely call in sick. In fact, they seem to 'know' that Americans often use sick days just because they dont want to go to work. And they find this abhorrent behavior! I think they create strikes for the same reason!

Number 5 at 42

2007-12-26T20:27:00.000-08:00

Well, here we are…my 5th annual birthday update letter. I only thought it appropriate to post it on the blog since this year, my distribution of people to update is more global! I usually share the highlights of the year with you now but it’s hard to pick out just a few when one lives in Venice!

I was thinking about last year at this time. I was arriving in Venice to sign the lease on my apartment here and celebrate my birthday. And, today, I am sitting in my apartment in Venice getting ready to celebrate my birthday!

I figure since you are already in my blog, you can get caught up if you haven’t already done so and read about my adventures, experiences and thoughts. But there are a few things that I haven’t posted—a few things I have learned during this year.

First, God’s blessings on me and his plans for me are so much better than any I come up with for myself!
Second, the beauty of this world (both natural and manmade) are indescribable at times.
Third, I really can live a much simpler life and there is great happiness to be found in that.

But I don’t want you to think that my letter this year is heavy with philosophical musings.

Mr. Peabody is doing well. He will be 17 in February. We had a few scares this year but I am amazed at how resilient and playful he is. My time in Italy has been enhanced because of my little buddy.

Earlier in the year I tried to come up with a list of 5 things I miss. Well, I still miss my couch back home! When I get back, I am going to sit and lie there for a good week without moving!

After 30 some visitors to my apartment in Venice, I learned more about you and me than either of us ever expected!

I have attempted to write that book I mentioned last year. It is so much more difficult than I ever expected. So, while I have not progressed as far as I had hoped, I have made a good dent in it.

More importantly, I have started seeing a plan for my future—what I want to be when I grow up. It’s not completely outlined yet, but know that this time away has given me the opportunity to think and ponder like never before.

It is officially winter now and I am doing amazingly well in this weather. I have also learned that I really don’t like the cold (no surprise to most of you) and am very happy that my home is in Phoenix!

I have a few more trips planned so far…Germany in January, Malta in February, Dublin in March and April is being discussed. After that, who knows. I do love traveling and seeing the world. I did get that wonderful email from the UK telling me I won the lottery there, so after I lose my mind and send them money to claim my winnings, maybe I will just travel the rest of my life!

I miss you all and have appreciated the technology to keep in touch. I look forward to a new year with anticipation. In the meantime, prayers to all of you for a blessed year.

Christingle and the Basilica

2007-12-25T16:51:00.000-08:00

Its about 2am and I am just getting home from midnight mass at St. Marks Basilica. What a fabulous, glorious end to a wonderful day.

After my brief nap this morning (see previous blog), I went back to St. Georges for Christingle. I have included a picture of my 'souvenir' Christingle and provide you with this link to explain more on this tradition..... http://whychristmas.com/customs/christingles.shtml

Then I had dinner with some friends and off to St. Marks for mass. Although we arrived about 40 minutes before mass was to begin, it was already packed. The service was in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Latin). But for a brief reading on the birth of Jesus, I didnt really understand the mass and how it related to the birth of Christ. But, sitting in the Basilica and looking at the magnificent art and artistry was more than enough. I kept thinking that I hope I can recreate this moment in time once I return to the US.

After the service and communion (which I did not do because they specifically asked for only Catholics), most went up to the manger to touch the replica of baby Jesus and cross themselves. They didnt have the entire manger scene, just the main character!

And, incredibly, the church was open for everyone to enjoy. For those of you who have been to St. Marks during 'business hours', you know that you are confined to a few places for visiting. But tonight, the entire church was open. To be able to walk around in places that I have only seen from a distance and to get an up close and personal view of it and the cardinal in all his gold regala was incredible. I am sad that I didnt have my camera with me in order to share with you, but suffice to say, it was a treat and a blessing!!!

Off to bed now. God Bless each and every one of you!

Mince Meat Pie

2007-12-24T03:46:00.000-08:00

This morning I went to the Reverends house for a traditional Christmas Eve morning of mince meat pie and mulled wine! I love them both. My grandmother used to make mince meat and rhubarb pie...I dont think I have had either since she passed away some 12 years ago or so. And I do love mulled wine!

Mince meat pie (for those of you who are skittish) no longer has meat in it and consists of fruits and other sweet things. The Reverends wife hand made the crust and all. She actually made what we would call tarts.....small individual pies with a 'lid' on it. As English tradition goes, you are to pull the top off the pie and make as many wishes as you have currents (not raisins) stuck to the top of your crust! But you can only do this for the first pie.....which means the other three that I had are strictly caloric intake and dont grant any wishes!

On the way home, this little ol' lady asked me to help her over a bridge and down the stairs. What a sweet thing she was and what a treat to be able to help on this special day.

Tonight, I am off to services at church where I will partake in my first Christingle service. Apparently this is originally a Moldavian tradition that the English church has taken over in the last 30 years or so. Everyone gets an orange with a stick in it and a ribbon around it to symbolize the world and Jesus.....I dont think I have it all down yet but I will figure it out tonight! Just so you know, it has nothing to do with Chris Kringle on the cartoon! haha

Buon Natale in Italian!
Happy Christmas in English!
Merry Christmas in American!

Carol Service

2007-12-23T01:01:00.000-08:00

Last night at the church I attend here in Venice (St. Georges Anglican), they held a traditional carol service. Over the past several months they have had many traditional services that I have never experienced in the US. Part of the reason is because I am not Anglican in the US and part of the reason, I think, is that we have lost alot of the formality and reverance in our Protestant churches back home.

The Carol Service included the traditional 9 lessons and some carols/hymns in between all telling the story of Christmas. There was a girls choir who came from the UK to help out. The 9 lessons start in Genesis and end in John and give a brief synopsis of mankind and the birth of the Savior. I never thought the Bible could be summarized in 9 lessons but it can be! And it is done quite well.

I was asked to read one of the lessons which was truly and honor for me. Not being at home or near my family and friends for the holidays makes me appreciate life even more. Being blessed by having new friends in Venice and a great church to attend brightens the season in my eyes.

On Christmas Eve, they are having the traditional Christingle service (another one I have yet to attend) which is a service for families including carols and the blessing of the stable and the Christmas tree. That will be at 5pm. Then I will have dinner with some new friends and we will all attend the midnight mass at St. Marks Basilica at 1130pm!! On Christmas Day, St. Georges will celebrate the Holy Eucharist (Communion as we sometimes call it) of the Nativity of the Lord. What a glorious season and I wish you all the blessings of this tremendous day!

December 20th

2007-12-21T04:26:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, Venice came alive with people and activity. Apparently, December 20th is the official day when Christmas shopping begins. You could just see, feel and hear all the extra people out and about. The Americans are out, the Japanese are out, the Chinese are out, the Italians are out, the Germans are out...its just like summer in Venice with the crowds, except that its only 38 degrees outside!

They also started the markets in many of the major squares around the city. There are some Christmas items here but it reminds me mostly of flea market stuff. They even have the "As Seen on TV" items and the guy who is hawking you to come take a look! There didnt seem to be anything I couldnt live without although there are few things that I have contemplated just because.

One thing I did see finally, which I have only heard about to date is the police checking your bags. Its the law here to have a receipt given to you and also that you take it. The police can stop you at any time and ask to see the receipts for what you have purchased in your bags. Like I said, I never saw this happen until today when some confused English woman was pointing at her receipt, then pointing at the store down the way and then back at her receipt. She was saying in English that she just came from the store and this is what she bought. The policeman didnt really care and I think he just stopped her because he was bored and wanted a distraction for a few minutes. And because he could!

Birthday Celebration

2007-12-18T22:28:00.000-08:00

So last night was my 42nd birthday. Well, not really until the 26th but since that is a holiday around here, I picked last night for a dinner party. Here are the highlights of the day.

I was lucky enough to sleep until almost 8am...thank you Mr. Peabody for that lovely gift! Then I went to get a two hour massage. Apparently, I am the first person to ask them for this extended luxury. Instead of spending extra time on each limb to use up the 2 hours, she gave me an hour massage, told me to lie there for a few minutes and she would be back. At which point, she started all over again with another 1 hour massage. Funny but still a nice time.

Unfortunately, it was a balmy 34 degrees outside after the massage so I was immediately 'alive' once I stepped outside from the warmth of my experience. I delivered my dessert to the restaurant for the evening and went home for the afternoon where I painted my fingernails for the first time in aobut 2 years and took a little catnap!

At 7pm, I met 12 of my new Venice friends (and one from Prague) at my favorite restaurant--those of you who have visited me will remember Rosa Rossa. We toasted with champagne and sat down for some appetizers (cicchetti in Italian). The owner, Christiano, his wife Elisa and brother Dionigi served up a wonderful atmosphere and fabulous cooking. Red wine was flowing. As a surprise, I ordered a suckling roasted pig which is a specialty of Sardenia and you might remember me talking about it back in July. There was so much food for appetizers that we didnt even order any meals and went straight to dessert--cannoli for everyone!

It was a great evening. Hardly anyone knew each other and this made for great conversations and laughter. I had such a special time and got some wonderful gifts (they even know I like cows here!). I will always treasure my memory of my birthday party in Venice! As my blog says, I truly am living the charmed life.

Guess What?

2007-12-17T22:51:00.000-08:00

For those of you who eat at fast food restaurants, this may not come as a big surprise to you. We all know that McDonalds is everywhere in the world, but not every place has Burger King. For some reason, this tiny little island has 2 McDonalds and 1 Burger King!

I was waiting for a water bus the other day and reading the small advertising panels they have posted around. I noticed these two and was amused--it translates to 'The America that we like' or 'America as we like it'. Apparently Burger King is having an anniversary and regardless of how they feel about us as a country, they do like our food! The first ad shows Jerry Lee Lewis....nothing speaks of Venice more than 'Great Balls of Fire', right?! The other ad talks about a Harley which is ever so practical on an island that doesnt allow motorized vehicles!

Just so you know, however, I wont be eating there.

Whew!

2007-12-14T04:34:00.000-08:00

Ok...just back from another trip to the vet. Much more pleasant for both of us this time. I decided to forego as much walking as possible and took a long boat ride around the island to get close to the vet. Mr. P did good except for the intial putting into the carrier event.

At the vet I knew I was in for a wait when there were already 3 people waiting. Turns out another emergency (aaarrrggghhh). There was a cat inside who went into shock. At least this time I only waited for about 45 extra minutes before I got in. In the waiting room, everyone loved my cat carrier again (this seems to be a big hit over here and perhaps I should consider making some money off of it!).

Once inside, I saw the cat in the side room. He/she was hooked up to many tubes, had an oxygen mask and an elderly owner whose eyes were red from crying. It was very sad. And, of course, that is when Mr. P decided to start crying at the top of his lungs. Once the vet started to draw the blood, it was more like bloody murder he was screaming. Upsetting for everyone around.

But we survived and left in about 5 minutes for another long boat ride home. He ate like a horse when we got here and its all in the past now. I call next week for the test results to see how the thyroid medicine is doing. And, hopefully, that is the last time he has to go in the carrier until its time to go.

A day in Asolo

2007-12-13T10:05:00.000-08:00

So today was another day trip on the train. I went to Asolo which is about an hour northeast of Venice. Really a very quaint and charming boutique town. I never get tired of looking at the architecture, color and decay of Italy. Asolo was a haven for rich Venetians back in the day (i.e. hundreds of years ago) and still is today. At one point in its history it was a fortress town and completely encircled with walls. I took over 150 pics in my short time there so you can tell I really enjoyed myself. I also had a hard time picking some to show you and I think I might have gone overboard!

Shortly after arriving, my new American friend (who lives there via Denver) got a call about doing a job. She has a business in decorative painting and finishes. The man who called was an art dealer in town, originally from Brazil via Canada to Asolo. Great story. There is a very old farmhouse in the country about 15 minutes outside the city in which a wealthy Italian man purchased as a gift for his wife. The nice part is that he did that 2 years ago and she still doesnt know! He hired Mr. Art Dealer to do the renovation, expansion and landscaping on the house because he was an unknown in the city and it would be easier to keep the secret! So now after 1 1/2 years of landscaping and expansion, they are starting to work on the exterior colors and next year the interior (thats where my American friend comes in!). The property is exquisite. You feel like you have stepped back in time in Italy. The views are incomprehensible and he has done a fabulous job on landscaping (over 600 trees and bushes planted---would love to come back in 10 years and see it again). On Christmas Day, Mr. Italy is going to bring his wife to this house and tell her about the great secret! We are only hoping she takes it well and doesnt wonder if he is prone to keeping other secrets from her! :-) If she enjoys living there half as much as I enjoyed my hour or so there, she will be one happy woman.

Back in Asolo, we had a nice, casual lunch and off for more siteseeing. But before we got too far, we ran into a kindly, old man dressed in his best for the afternoon out. We talked briefly and he pulled out a wad of old, faded pictures from his pocket. It was his life and his family there in his hands. Its times like that I wish I was fluent, because I am sure he had many wonderful stories to share.

I got my share of exercise today on the hills but it was all worth it. The best way for me to explain is by stealing a commercial: Roundtrip ticket via train from Venice to Asolo: 7.70 euro. 1 quattro formaggio pizza and a coke for lunch: 11 euro. 7 hours in Asolo and 150 pictures: priceless!

Fixing Venice

2007-12-10T03:02:00.000-08:00

I have talked enough about the decay and restoration of Venice. Its a huge undertaking. And its very difficult to describe. Well, the island of San Pantalon here in Venice is being fixed and I was able to snap some pics for you to help you understand. San Pantalon is an island and is part of the 117 islands that make up the full island of Venice as you know it. No one really talks about the 117 different islands here but in this case, they are literally using the canal boundaries to do some restoration.

At a high level, the workers will dig up the street and go about 5-7 feet down where they will find all the pipes and wires for that area. They will replace what they can or need to, build up the foundation again and then cover it all in and put on a new street. A job this size can easily take over a year to do even though it is an area the size of a normal 1300 sq ft house. It truly is fascinating how they work their way around the island, fixing and repairing. It never ends.

Unfortunately, when I went to take pictures, it was morning and the tide was in so I wasnt able to get some of the best ones showing you the old vs. the new. However, I think you will get the idea.