For those of you who are avid readers, I would suggest the book, City of Fallen Angels. Its about the burning of the Fenice Opera House here in Venice a few years back. The fact that a historic building on a small island burnt to the ground and the rest of the island was saved is amazing and this story covers that. But it also delves into the possible reasons for the burning as well as getting into some of the society life here in Venice. Overall, very interesting.
The reason I suggest this is that in the book there is reference to a group called "Save Venice". Its not exactly a glowing report but still interesting. Basically a group of wealthy philanthropic people from NY/Boston area who have become concerned with the history/decay/restoration of Venice and do fund raisers, etc. to fund these things. You know--the really wealthy folks! I almost didnt think it was a true organization because of some of the storyline.
I made contact with a gal here in Venice who is from Boston and married to a Venetian. Really nice girl and a newfound friend. Her and her husband have about 6 apts here that they rent out for tourists. She invited me to a lecture and cocktail event from the Save Venice group yesterday about Tintoretto (painter). The lecture was in Italian which was good practice for my listening ear but the really interesting part is that some of the people from the book were there!
It was surreal being there drinking Bellini's with people I have read about. These are 'old money' people--a crowd I have never been associated with or hung out with before in life. What a great treat. I met a famous opera singer (although I know nothing about opera, you and I will have to take it as true). Nice lady...spoke with such enunciation. Met the son of one of the founders of the organization--he is the curator of Italian art in some Boston museum, etc. His knowledge is amazing. If I could get just a one hour tour with him to some church or museum here in Venice, my life would be greatly enhanced. But let me assure you there was plenty of gossip going around and social climbing being done. I actually stepped into a whole new world and got to experience it firsthand---just like being a fly on the wall!
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Money
For those of you not familiar with the euro system of money, let me enlighten you! They have tons more currency options than we do in the US. They have the 1 cent, 2 cent, 5 cent, 10 cent, 20 cent, 50 cent, 1 euro, and 2 euro coins. Then they have 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, etc bills. All the bills are different colors and sizes (Side note: I have often harassed my brother in Germany that Americans seem to be more intelligent as we dont need size and color to help us distinguish between 5 and 10!). Aside from the monoply looking bills, the coins are a big deal. I can see both pros and cons and I know the US is thinking of making more coins because they are cheaper. However, it doesnt take long before you get weighed down with coins in your pocket or purse. And despite the great effort to make the bills look distinct from each other, they didnt do all that much with the coins....very subtle difference between 1 and 2 euro coin. Which brings me to todays storytime.....
When shopping, it is apparently a really big deal to provide the cashier with exact change. For example, at the grocery store the other day, my total was 4.08 (cat food, again!). I didnt have 8 cents so I was just going to give her a 5 bill. She was not at all pleased with this and wanted me to give her something closer to the exact amount. After fiddling around in my coin purse and her digging in my hand to take out what she wanted (which is a common occurence in stores here), she was happy with two 2 euro coins and 10 cents. So I got 2 cents back. Now, the amount of time spent on this adventure doesnt seem to outweigh the benefits to either of us.
I have seen many people approach the cashier with their hand full of coins ready to make the count for exactness. Keep in mind the options are multiplied with the coins. For example, with 8 cents in the US, you either have a nickel and 3 pennies or 8 pennies. But in Europe, you can have a 5 cents, 3 pennies, or 5 cents and one 2 cent and 1 penny, or four 2 cents, or three 2 cents and 2 pennies, etc. etc. etc.
And just today, as I finally broke down after my 3 day search for non aerosol hairspray (doesnt exist but thats another story for another time), I made my purchase for 3.39 euro. But this time, I was prepared. I had the 9 cents (5, 2 and 2)!!! Ha! But, alas, still not good enough...the cashier insisted I provide the entire 39 cents and not just the 9. When I told her I didnt have it, she grumbled and gave me my 70 cents in change!
I am completely amused at this phenomenon. It gets your heart racing as you stand in line at the cashier..."Will I be able to perform and meet expectations or will I fail and have to be given coins for change"? Its just one way that I can still make use of my math degree!
When shopping, it is apparently a really big deal to provide the cashier with exact change. For example, at the grocery store the other day, my total was 4.08 (cat food, again!). I didnt have 8 cents so I was just going to give her a 5 bill. She was not at all pleased with this and wanted me to give her something closer to the exact amount. After fiddling around in my coin purse and her digging in my hand to take out what she wanted (which is a common occurence in stores here), she was happy with two 2 euro coins and 10 cents. So I got 2 cents back. Now, the amount of time spent on this adventure doesnt seem to outweigh the benefits to either of us.
I have seen many people approach the cashier with their hand full of coins ready to make the count for exactness. Keep in mind the options are multiplied with the coins. For example, with 8 cents in the US, you either have a nickel and 3 pennies or 8 pennies. But in Europe, you can have a 5 cents, 3 pennies, or 5 cents and one 2 cent and 1 penny, or four 2 cents, or three 2 cents and 2 pennies, etc. etc. etc.
And just today, as I finally broke down after my 3 day search for non aerosol hairspray (doesnt exist but thats another story for another time), I made my purchase for 3.39 euro. But this time, I was prepared. I had the 9 cents (5, 2 and 2)!!! Ha! But, alas, still not good enough...the cashier insisted I provide the entire 39 cents and not just the 9. When I told her I didnt have it, she grumbled and gave me my 70 cents in change!
I am completely amused at this phenomenon. It gets your heart racing as you stand in line at the cashier..."Will I be able to perform and meet expectations or will I fail and have to be given coins for change"? Its just one way that I can still make use of my math degree!
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Venice by Boat
What a great afternoon...very unexpected. I was up way to early..phone call at midnight, cat meowing at 5am, you get the picture. So when siesta time rolled around I pondered the idea of taking a nap. I got all cozy on the couch in my entry way with my Moby Dick novel (what a tough book to read!) when the doorbell rang. It was Gabriele, my realtor. He wanted to know if I was available to go with him to check on some apartments that will be rented for tourists in the upcoming week (i.e. make sure everything is ready, etc). I said sure since the beauty of being unemployed is that you can come and go as you please. What I didnt know was that we were going via his boat!
Gabriele has a small motor boat, less than 40hp, but the perfect way to travel. I learned so much today and the perspective of the city from the water is amazing. For starters, you get to see so much architecture and decay and history that you wouldnt otherwise see unless you were right there on the water. And I learned much about the city:
1. Gondoliers get between $100-125 for 30 minutes of cruising. You can usually talk them down to $80 during the day but not so much at night. The interesting thing about this is that they keep all the money! I thought perhaps the money went to some company and then they got a salary but that is not the case. Just do the math with me. Ten 30 minute trips a day at a hundred dollars each.....I should marry a gondolier is the answer to that equation! (oh yeah, did I mention it was tax free also!)
2. The same scenario goes for the private water taxi people. So, if I cant find a gondolier, I can marry a taxi driver...hows that for funny...one would never aspire to marry a taxi driver in the US! haha
3. The city is built on tree trunks. There are literally millions of them below the island. It starts about 6-8 meters (20-25 feet) below the surface of the water. They placed the tree trunks vertically in the mud and then placed another layer horizontally on top of that and then a third layer again vertically. The layer in the mud has not deteriorates over all these years because there is no oxygen down there...great chemical reaction and I wonder if they knew that was going to happen. So Venice is sinking but only because the trunks are sinking into the mud, not because the trunks are deteriorating. After the tree trunks starts the brick buildings. The historians and architects, etc have concluded that these buildings are constructed so much better than anything we make today (duh!).
4. You dont need a drivers license to drive the boat as long as you have less than 40hp. If you have a place to dock your boat along a canal (inherited pretty much like apartments), its about 80 euros a year in taxes. If you park at a marina type place, its about 1400 euro a year in taxes.
5. When you overtake (thats the term they use--we call it passing) a gondola in your boat, you are supposed to always do it on the side where their paddle is. This gives them the most control over their gondola.
6. Venice is a beautiful city, but it is magnifide intensly when you are in a boat!
What a fabulous 3 hour trip I had....I saw a fantastic apartment that rents for $1100 euros for the week! It was really nice--not the right part of town for $1100 but still a fantastic set up. I actually maneuvered several times getting in and out of the boat under various circumstances. Because the water was is still pretty high today, many of the step are under water. Or there is a great possibility that you wont be able to dock your boat anywhere near steps and may have to just literally go straight from the boat over a railing while holding onto a pilon. It really pays to be tall in situations like these! I wont say I was the most graceful at it, but I didnt fall in the water which is really important to me after last week.
And with that, I think I will go celebrate with some gelato!
Gabriele has a small motor boat, less than 40hp, but the perfect way to travel. I learned so much today and the perspective of the city from the water is amazing. For starters, you get to see so much architecture and decay and history that you wouldnt otherwise see unless you were right there on the water. And I learned much about the city:
1. Gondoliers get between $100-125 for 30 minutes of cruising. You can usually talk them down to $80 during the day but not so much at night. The interesting thing about this is that they keep all the money! I thought perhaps the money went to some company and then they got a salary but that is not the case. Just do the math with me. Ten 30 minute trips a day at a hundred dollars each.....I should marry a gondolier is the answer to that equation! (oh yeah, did I mention it was tax free also!)
2. The same scenario goes for the private water taxi people. So, if I cant find a gondolier, I can marry a taxi driver...hows that for funny...one would never aspire to marry a taxi driver in the US! haha
3. The city is built on tree trunks. There are literally millions of them below the island. It starts about 6-8 meters (20-25 feet) below the surface of the water. They placed the tree trunks vertically in the mud and then placed another layer horizontally on top of that and then a third layer again vertically. The layer in the mud has not deteriorates over all these years because there is no oxygen down there...great chemical reaction and I wonder if they knew that was going to happen. So Venice is sinking but only because the trunks are sinking into the mud, not because the trunks are deteriorating. After the tree trunks starts the brick buildings. The historians and architects, etc have concluded that these buildings are constructed so much better than anything we make today (duh!).
4. You dont need a drivers license to drive the boat as long as you have less than 40hp. If you have a place to dock your boat along a canal (inherited pretty much like apartments), its about 80 euros a year in taxes. If you park at a marina type place, its about 1400 euro a year in taxes.
5. When you overtake (thats the term they use--we call it passing) a gondola in your boat, you are supposed to always do it on the side where their paddle is. This gives them the most control over their gondola.
6. Venice is a beautiful city, but it is magnifide intensly when you are in a boat!
What a fabulous 3 hour trip I had....I saw a fantastic apartment that rents for $1100 euros for the week! It was really nice--not the right part of town for $1100 but still a fantastic set up. I actually maneuvered several times getting in and out of the boat under various circumstances. Because the water was is still pretty high today, many of the step are under water. Or there is a great possibility that you wont be able to dock your boat anywhere near steps and may have to just literally go straight from the boat over a railing while holding onto a pilon. It really pays to be tall in situations like these! I wont say I was the most graceful at it, but I didnt fall in the water which is really important to me after last week.
And with that, I think I will go celebrate with some gelato!
Customer Service...or the lack thereof
The rain broke for a few hours yesterday and I ventured out to the mainland to buy a few things cheaper. You can go to the edge of the island, catch a bus and drive over the causeway for a few miles to Italy proper.
So, I finished my shopping and the bus was due to arrive in about 25 minutes for the return trip to the island. What better way to pass the time than stop into the shoe store (of course!). It was about 1030am and the store had been open for at least 2 hours. But for whatever reason, the clerk decided shortly before I arrived that it was time to mop the floor. When I approached, she was working on half of the small store and I ventured in to look at the sale items. There were these cute little ditty's that were going for 10 euros which is unheard of here. I was attempting to look for my size when she called out something. As I looked, she was pointing to the floor and I assumed she was telling me the floor was damp, dont slip, etc. I smiled and went back to looking for my size. When it was obvious they didnt have it and I was not going home with new shoes, I looked up to find the clerk at the front of the store, leaning on her mop and carrying the most disgusted look on her face. So, apparently, she wasnt warning me about the wet floor and concerned about my safety but rather more interested in the fact that I was messing up her work and she would have to redo it all!
This is not an isolated case. Last December, I was shopping with a friend (for shoes no less!) and she was trying on a pair. Keep in mind, C speaks excellent Italian and has no trouble communicating with the sales people. So, anyway, she was trying on these shoes and told the clerk that they were too narrow for her foot. The clerk argued that they were not narrow shoes, they were normal width shoes. C explained again that they were too narrow for her and not comfortable. The clerk again argued the point that they were indeed comfortable and not narrow. This diatribe went on for a few more minutes and C said she didnt want the shoes, the clerk took them back and walked away! I was truly in awe of the whole scene. One would think the clerk would have offered a different size or width because, afterall, her job is to sell shoes, right? Apparently I have that wrong as well!
I dont want to make sweeping generalizations because I am sure there are many parts of Italy where customer service exists and people aren't terminally rude, but I truly have yet to encounter this in Venice and surrounding area. I have visited here 5 times on vacation and have now lived here for almost a month. I dont think I will ever get used to this phenomenon. It truly is foreign but apparently it works for them as they have been around alot longer than the US.
Probably the most interesting part of all of this to me is the uncanny ability the Italians have at making you feel like it is your fault. Something in the posture, the gestures and the intonation of voice catches you offguard and before you know it, your tail is between your legs and you are leaving. It's not until later that you realize you did nothing wrong and you would have never stood for that type of abuse in the States....and we all know, I have never been at a loss for words when telling people what I think and feel! Kudos to the Italians on this one!
So, I finished my shopping and the bus was due to arrive in about 25 minutes for the return trip to the island. What better way to pass the time than stop into the shoe store (of course!). It was about 1030am and the store had been open for at least 2 hours. But for whatever reason, the clerk decided shortly before I arrived that it was time to mop the floor. When I approached, she was working on half of the small store and I ventured in to look at the sale items. There were these cute little ditty's that were going for 10 euros which is unheard of here. I was attempting to look for my size when she called out something. As I looked, she was pointing to the floor and I assumed she was telling me the floor was damp, dont slip, etc. I smiled and went back to looking for my size. When it was obvious they didnt have it and I was not going home with new shoes, I looked up to find the clerk at the front of the store, leaning on her mop and carrying the most disgusted look on her face. So, apparently, she wasnt warning me about the wet floor and concerned about my safety but rather more interested in the fact that I was messing up her work and she would have to redo it all!
This is not an isolated case. Last December, I was shopping with a friend (for shoes no less!) and she was trying on a pair. Keep in mind, C speaks excellent Italian and has no trouble communicating with the sales people. So, anyway, she was trying on these shoes and told the clerk that they were too narrow for her foot. The clerk argued that they were not narrow shoes, they were normal width shoes. C explained again that they were too narrow for her and not comfortable. The clerk again argued the point that they were indeed comfortable and not narrow. This diatribe went on for a few more minutes and C said she didnt want the shoes, the clerk took them back and walked away! I was truly in awe of the whole scene. One would think the clerk would have offered a different size or width because, afterall, her job is to sell shoes, right? Apparently I have that wrong as well!
I dont want to make sweeping generalizations because I am sure there are many parts of Italy where customer service exists and people aren't terminally rude, but I truly have yet to encounter this in Venice and surrounding area. I have visited here 5 times on vacation and have now lived here for almost a month. I dont think I will ever get used to this phenomenon. It truly is foreign but apparently it works for them as they have been around alot longer than the US.
Probably the most interesting part of all of this to me is the uncanny ability the Italians have at making you feel like it is your fault. Something in the posture, the gestures and the intonation of voice catches you offguard and before you know it, your tail is between your legs and you are leaving. It's not until later that you realize you did nothing wrong and you would have never stood for that type of abuse in the States....and we all know, I have never been at a loss for words when telling people what I think and feel! Kudos to the Italians on this one!
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Regatta
Today was a big day. In the morning a boat race and in the afternoon a regatta. The boat race was open to anyone and there were thousands! Kayaks, 2 men canoes, 20 men rowers, you name it....the basin was full. I have attached some pics for you. Then later this evening, there was the 52nd annual Race of the Historic Marine Republics. This is a competition between Venice, Genoa, Pisa, and Amalfi. As I write this, the regatta is going on. It is pouring rain again tonight so I only stayed out long enough to see the parade of the 4 cities. I have attached some of those pics also. If you notice the pic with the water, Aqua Alta is on its way again tonight...there are usually 4-5 steps showing there and at that time there was barely 2! Lets hope Venice wins this year!
Its about 65 degrees and windy outside with the rain. Its bearable but the real problem is the umbrella war out there. With thousands and thousands of people walking around, you really could get your eye poked out! After the parade, the crowd dispersed and the streets were packed. Most of the streets are about 5-6 feet wide, so imagine hundreds with umbrellas trying to go in both directions. Chaos..dogs and cats living together! The police started coming to try to make people follow the rules of the road (you know, stay to the right), but it really is riot material! Its one of those things that you have to be there to understand and not something you want to experience more than once!
So now I am home in my warm robe drinking cappuccino and all is right in the world!
Saturday, May 26, 2007
Aqua Alta!
What a great day...I had a visitor from Phoenix for 7 hours...we had a ball....sorry she couldnt stay longer. However, toward the end of the day it started to storm. And the tide rose incredibly. As I was walking her back to the train station we were marveling at how high the water was compared to just two hours before. Then I realized that this is the true Aqua Alta I have read about so many times in Venice. The flooding of Venice that happens over 100 times a year.
So, after dropping her off at the train station, I hoofed it the 30 minute walk back to San Marco Square. It was still raining a bit and rather windy. But I was met with an incredible sight...San Marco was completely flooded! I took my shoes off as I approached and started walking through the square as I have done countless times over the years. The water was about halfway up my calf!!!!!!!!!!!
A note to the wise: marble is very slippery when wet! Had I known this before this evening, I probably would not have biffed it in the middle of San Marco! Yep, I fell down in all my glory. Went down fast and hard and prone in about 4 inches of water. I sat up and just laughed. People pointed and laughed at me or with me, but it doesn't matter. I havent had that much fun since I was a kid.
But I got up and walked ever so gingerly through the rest of San Marco out to the waterfront...what a site....didnt have my camera so will catch the action for you next time. However, with the rain and wind and me being sopping wet from head to toe, it was getting a bit chilly andI came back home with a huge smile on my face the whole way.....really, what a great, fun experience!
So, after dropping her off at the train station, I hoofed it the 30 minute walk back to San Marco Square. It was still raining a bit and rather windy. But I was met with an incredible sight...San Marco was completely flooded! I took my shoes off as I approached and started walking through the square as I have done countless times over the years. The water was about halfway up my calf!!!!!!!!!!!
A note to the wise: marble is very slippery when wet! Had I known this before this evening, I probably would not have biffed it in the middle of San Marco! Yep, I fell down in all my glory. Went down fast and hard and prone in about 4 inches of water. I sat up and just laughed. People pointed and laughed at me or with me, but it doesn't matter. I havent had that much fun since I was a kid.
But I got up and walked ever so gingerly through the rest of San Marco out to the waterfront...what a site....didnt have my camera so will catch the action for you next time. However, with the rain and wind and me being sopping wet from head to toe, it was getting a bit chilly andI came back home with a huge smile on my face the whole way.....really, what a great, fun experience!
Friday, May 25, 2007
My Apartment
Wow..two postings in one day..aren't you lucky! Anyway, just a few pics of the apartment....entryway, great inventions, kitchen, stair up to bedroom, view from living room window
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