There were several stories during the year that I mentioned on the blog and now might be a good time to recap where they stand as of now.
First, we have the infamous 4th bridge over the Grand Canal. Back in July I think it was, I stayed up until the wee hours of the morning to get a glimpse of the curved arch of the bridge being transported down the Grand Canal. Almost a decade behind in completion and uncountable millions of euros over budget, it was due to be finished by December 1 last year. Here we are at the end of April and it is still unknown when the first person will be able to walk over it. Despite the insanity of it all, they seem to be concerned now about the fact that all the steps are in glass and someone might just camp out under the bridge to look up girls skirts! How about we try to finish the bridge before we worry about silly things like that?
Second, we have the never-ending vermin problem (i.e. pigeons) in St. Marks Square. The seed vendors were to be out of there by April 1 and as of today, they are still happily selling to tourists. They have lost their appeal and are to be shut down (again) by May 1. This, of course, remains to be seen. The interesting part of this case is that the government has said they would pay the vendors the cost of lost revenue for putting them out of business!!!!! How does one calculate that (because I can assure you that they arent keeping records) and for what period of time does one get reimbursed (for 1 year, for 20 years, until you die)?
Third, last September, Venice initiated a new card for monthly vaporetto travel. Its called IMOB. And by November of last year, everyone was to have this new monthly pass type credit card and be swiping it on the newly installed machines at every vaporetto stop. Well, November has come and gone, not everyone has the pass, the literature explaining how the machines work hasnt even been printed to distribute and there are only 2 (count them 2) techs in the whole city who can install, fix, explain whatever about the machines! The electronic tickets can only be purchased at certain places because those 2 techs havent made it around to all the tobacco shops (who normally sell these sort of things) to install and train them. The new deadline of May 1 doesnt really seem plausible now does it? I guess they will be using paper tickets for a while yet, eh?
Fourth, the elusive street vendors strike again! It really is a comedy routine. You have all of these African men hawking fake Prada and Gucci bags to tourists and once in a blue moon you will see a 'sting' operation where the police will half-heartedly go after these guys making them disperse in all directions and possibly nabbing one (only to release him in a few minutes) and a few bags in the process (which I imagine they take home to their mom or wife or girlfriend). Then weeks and weeks go by with the police turning the other way as they walk past these illegal sellers. Now, surprisingly, the Guardia di Finanzia (the special police force in charge of business regulations) has informed us (the public) that these men are selling illegally made goods! Egads, say it isnt so! Is there a point to this story? Probably not, other than to say that it goes much deeper than the surface picture. These guys will be selling here forever because someone is making money off of them somewhere and in good Italian style, officials are being corrupted and paid off to make sure the illicit bags will remain.
And finally, my internet. As you have probably guessed by now, I still have the connection! I mailed them a letter describing in detail the events of the last 6 weeks (i.e. how I have tried to end my service and return their modem) and also explained to them that I would not be paying the charge they tried to put on my credit card for service through May 2008! I wonder how long I will have to keep denying charges on my card before they figure it out?
So there you have it....some things change but not in Venice...or at least not very quickly. A year has come and gone and so much has been seen and experienced by my eyes and yet, so much remains the same. But as frustrating as some of it can be, its also part of the charm of the place I have called home for the last year.
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Lady Viscountess Helen D'Arbernon
Monday night I went to a lecture about the lady in the title. She was born in the late 19th century, was a debutant by birth and marriage and lived a life of travel, art, literature and connections. And she spent a great deal of time living in Palazzo Justinian.
There is a regular meeting (in English) of this group in which they have presentations on various subjects relating to Venice. I had been invited earlier in the year but never attended. I thought it good to catch at least one as I make my way through my 'last time to do...' list.
To make a very interesting but hour long presentation short, there was a professor at the local university (Ca Foscari) who took a smoke break and stood under a staircase at the neighboring Palazzo Justinian. She happened to look up and see an inscription that said Helen D'Arbernon restored this dilapidated staircase in 1902. Serendipity.
After much research to find out who she was and her story, our presenter/teacher unpacked this womans life with picture, paintings and tidbits of diary entries from the likes of Ruskin, Brown and Howard.
I have done much reading about Venice during my year here....always fascinated at the history and web like relations of these famous artists, poets and philanthropists who I have heard in passing but never really knew. The Palazzo itself has a very long and vivid history and legend attached to it and it is no wonder that it caught the imagination and love of Helen. Venice has captured the hearts of many over the centuries in one way or another and I am honored to be in their company.
To be at a lecture where I was being read details of Venetian history and having the privilege of seeing pictures and photographs previously undiscovered or unmentioned was fascinating. Her biographical lecture carried us from Helens birth in England to Constantinople to Rome and, of course, to Venice. We covered Italy in WW1 and we peeked in on the lives of the rich society during that time. I can only imagine the 'fun' our teacher had in her research about this previously anonymous, sometime Venetian resident.
I look forward to the publication of this research to read it in depth now that I know its origin and location. Serendipity for the teacher having her cigarette and serendipity for me to attend this lecture.
There is a regular meeting (in English) of this group in which they have presentations on various subjects relating to Venice. I had been invited earlier in the year but never attended. I thought it good to catch at least one as I make my way through my 'last time to do...' list.
To make a very interesting but hour long presentation short, there was a professor at the local university (Ca Foscari) who took a smoke break and stood under a staircase at the neighboring Palazzo Justinian. She happened to look up and see an inscription that said Helen D'Arbernon restored this dilapidated staircase in 1902. Serendipity.
After much research to find out who she was and her story, our presenter/teacher unpacked this womans life with picture, paintings and tidbits of diary entries from the likes of Ruskin, Brown and Howard.
I have done much reading about Venice during my year here....always fascinated at the history and web like relations of these famous artists, poets and philanthropists who I have heard in passing but never really knew. The Palazzo itself has a very long and vivid history and legend attached to it and it is no wonder that it caught the imagination and love of Helen. Venice has captured the hearts of many over the centuries in one way or another and I am honored to be in their company.
To be at a lecture where I was being read details of Venetian history and having the privilege of seeing pictures and photographs previously undiscovered or unmentioned was fascinating. Her biographical lecture carried us from Helens birth in England to Constantinople to Rome and, of course, to Venice. We covered Italy in WW1 and we peeked in on the lives of the rich society during that time. I can only imagine the 'fun' our teacher had in her research about this previously anonymous, sometime Venetian resident.
I look forward to the publication of this research to read it in depth now that I know its origin and location. Serendipity for the teacher having her cigarette and serendipity for me to attend this lecture.
Monday, April 28, 2008
Another Cultural Day
I was reminded several times yesterday that I am living in a very cultural place. Back home, the majority of foreigners we see come from Mexico. The occasional other nationality doesnt usually raise an eyebrow as they tend to blend in. Here in Venice, blending is not always so easy.
In the morning as I attended my last church service here, we were honored with some guests from another church that the Reverend officiates. He was having the annual meeting of the church and invited members to attend our service in the morning and stay for the meeting. St. Georges in Venice could easily remind me of my church in Phoenix...nothing but white folk! So, what a great surprise and honor when about 10 Nigerian members of the Padova church showed up in their Sunday best and native costumes. They brought a life to the service that the often reserved English community cant repeat or muster.
Later in the day as I was showing some more people around Venice (it never ends!), the entire Jewish Orthodox Ghetto community walks by Rialto chanting and clapping. What a sight that was--not one you see everyday anywhere. I dont know the occasion but it was great to see them come out of the Ghetto (which doesnt happen much either), dressed in their black frocks with side ponytails and top hats! After crossing the Rialto Bridge, hanging out for a while (all the while singing and clapping), they turned around and went back the way they came!
And still later, we stopped in to visit a church (i.e. be a tourist) and I was surprised to find an entire congregation of Chinese folk having an afternoon service in english! There are many Chinese in the city as they are buying up stores like crazy but I wasnt aware that they had their own services here. And one doesnt really ever walk into a Catholic church in Venice and expect to see a Chinese congregation sitting in the pews.
What a nice reminder yesterday was of how cultures can co-exist even in the smallest of islands. America is often noted as a melting pot of the world, but in my little corner of it, we dont get much culture like that. It was a true breath of fresh air!
In the morning as I attended my last church service here, we were honored with some guests from another church that the Reverend officiates. He was having the annual meeting of the church and invited members to attend our service in the morning and stay for the meeting. St. Georges in Venice could easily remind me of my church in Phoenix...nothing but white folk! So, what a great surprise and honor when about 10 Nigerian members of the Padova church showed up in their Sunday best and native costumes. They brought a life to the service that the often reserved English community cant repeat or muster.
Later in the day as I was showing some more people around Venice (it never ends!), the entire Jewish Orthodox Ghetto community walks by Rialto chanting and clapping. What a sight that was--not one you see everyday anywhere. I dont know the occasion but it was great to see them come out of the Ghetto (which doesnt happen much either), dressed in their black frocks with side ponytails and top hats! After crossing the Rialto Bridge, hanging out for a while (all the while singing and clapping), they turned around and went back the way they came!
And still later, we stopped in to visit a church (i.e. be a tourist) and I was surprised to find an entire congregation of Chinese folk having an afternoon service in english! There are many Chinese in the city as they are buying up stores like crazy but I wasnt aware that they had their own services here. And one doesnt really ever walk into a Catholic church in Venice and expect to see a Chinese congregation sitting in the pews.
What a nice reminder yesterday was of how cultures can co-exist even in the smallest of islands. America is often noted as a melting pot of the world, but in my little corner of it, we dont get much culture like that. It was a true breath of fresh air!
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Tick Tock
Well, with under a week to go, I have managed to accomplish two things on the 'to-do' list that I never got around to this year. Of course, thats a really poor excuse. How can a person who is unemployed for a whole year not get around to doing something?! Lets just say, the opportunity and the brain were not functioning at the same time until today.
First, I managed to finally come across a certain bridge I wanted to see. With 409 in the city, its not always easy to find just one. But I had heard about the name of this bridge, thought it was funny and felt the need to see it in person. Its called Ponte de le Tette or in english, Bridge of the Boobs! What a great name for a bridge. If those steps could talk, huh? I sure wish I knew why it got that name (something to do with being periously close to the old 'red light' district of ancient days past I am sure). Or better yet, I wish I would have found it earlier in the year and I could have given someone directions....can you see it--go to the Bridge of the Boobs and take a left....... :-)
Second, I finally found number 5 on my top 5 list of favorite churches in the city. There are about 100 so its no small accomplishment to see them all and make a top talent list. I was actually surprised that I couldnt find more than 5 to be honest and had a feeling that the Greek Orthodox church was going to be it. And I was right. I managed to be in the area, remember that I wanted to go there and was lucky enough it was open all at the same time! Its a very small church and pretty non descript from the outside, but in traditional Greek Orthodox flair, the inside is brilliant gold and very serene. Of course, pics were not allowed but I took the opportunity to get some rogue shots when no one was looking!
Quite a successful day all in all. I could come up with things to see and do forever in this city but I am quite pleased about todays events. Check and check. Now, if I could just be that lucky with the suitcases.....
First, I managed to finally come across a certain bridge I wanted to see. With 409 in the city, its not always easy to find just one. But I had heard about the name of this bridge, thought it was funny and felt the need to see it in person. Its called Ponte de le Tette or in english, Bridge of the Boobs! What a great name for a bridge. If those steps could talk, huh? I sure wish I knew why it got that name (something to do with being periously close to the old 'red light' district of ancient days past I am sure). Or better yet, I wish I would have found it earlier in the year and I could have given someone directions....can you see it--go to the Bridge of the Boobs and take a left....... :-)
Second, I finally found number 5 on my top 5 list of favorite churches in the city. There are about 100 so its no small accomplishment to see them all and make a top talent list. I was actually surprised that I couldnt find more than 5 to be honest and had a feeling that the Greek Orthodox church was going to be it. And I was right. I managed to be in the area, remember that I wanted to go there and was lucky enough it was open all at the same time! Its a very small church and pretty non descript from the outside, but in traditional Greek Orthodox flair, the inside is brilliant gold and very serene. Of course, pics were not allowed but I took the opportunity to get some rogue shots when no one was looking!
Quite a successful day all in all. I could come up with things to see and do forever in this city but I am quite pleased about todays events. Check and check. Now, if I could just be that lucky with the suitcases.....
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Stuff
Do you remember that George Carlin skit about how much 'stuff' we have? Its the one about all we do as humans is collect stuff and move it around--and then we buy containers to put our stuff in (containers like a house and car). Its an old routine of his, but I was struck with my memories of this skit as I attempt to pack for the third time already. I thought I was done but Delta changed their policy again and I cant take a carryon because they consider the cat a carryon! Nice policy since I have to pay for the cat--doesnt make any sense to me but under the current airline circumstances, I dont think it is possible to make sense of any of those fees.
Now, as I remember, I think I packed and repacked three times to come over here (shoes were the big issue back then). So, this shouldnt be a surprise that I would have to do it on the way home. But the real surprise is how come the 'stuff' that fit on the way over isnt fitting on the way back?
Here's the math....I came with 4 suitcases, a laptop and a cat. Some people brought over winter stuff which amounted to another suitcase basically. Over the course of the year, I did purchase a few things and then I went shopping recently to buy some souviners and gifts which amounts to another suitcase. I sent a suitcase home in Feb with a friend and one home last week with my friend. So why am left with 5 suitcases to fill here along with the laptop and the cat instead of the 4 I started with? The math makes sense but the 'stuff' doesnt fit!
I am travelling alone on the way back so we have to add in the challenge of me maneuvering all this 'stuff' by myself through customs in Atlanta as well as what an incredible amount of money its going to cost for all this 'stuff'. Of course, the price for everything has increased since I came over and at last count, we are looking at about $600 for my 'stuff' (plus the cat!). And, unfortunately, even with my math degree, I cant seem to make a difference with that number
So, back to packing my 'stuff'. My mother has given me a mantra to enable me to accomplish what is hopefully the last packing round--'let it go'! This is easier said than done but I have been practicing saying it over and over. My mantra, at the end of round three is going to be 'it is what it is'! And that leaves me to wonder if I truly got that lesson this year about being able to live on less?! :-)
Just for fun..here is the link to the George Carlin skit on YouTube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvgN5gCuLac
Now, as I remember, I think I packed and repacked three times to come over here (shoes were the big issue back then). So, this shouldnt be a surprise that I would have to do it on the way home. But the real surprise is how come the 'stuff' that fit on the way over isnt fitting on the way back?
Here's the math....I came with 4 suitcases, a laptop and a cat. Some people brought over winter stuff which amounted to another suitcase basically. Over the course of the year, I did purchase a few things and then I went shopping recently to buy some souviners and gifts which amounts to another suitcase. I sent a suitcase home in Feb with a friend and one home last week with my friend. So why am left with 5 suitcases to fill here along with the laptop and the cat instead of the 4 I started with? The math makes sense but the 'stuff' doesnt fit!
I am travelling alone on the way back so we have to add in the challenge of me maneuvering all this 'stuff' by myself through customs in Atlanta as well as what an incredible amount of money its going to cost for all this 'stuff'. Of course, the price for everything has increased since I came over and at last count, we are looking at about $600 for my 'stuff' (plus the cat!). And, unfortunately, even with my math degree, I cant seem to make a difference with that number
So, back to packing my 'stuff'. My mother has given me a mantra to enable me to accomplish what is hopefully the last packing round--'let it go'! This is easier said than done but I have been practicing saying it over and over. My mantra, at the end of round three is going to be 'it is what it is'! And that leaves me to wonder if I truly got that lesson this year about being able to live on less?! :-)
Just for fun..here is the link to the George Carlin skit on YouTube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvgN5gCuLac
Friday, April 25, 2008
April 25th
(Editors Note: I am publishing this a day early because my internet is 'supposed' to be disconnected by Friday--by the way, I did call the credit card company and took care of FastWeb my own way! I hope to check email and write a few times more before the flight--I am sure it will be nothing but adventures to share during this last week.)
April 25th in Italy is the equivalent of July 4th in America. Its a big day of celebrating and lucky for them, it falls on a Friday, so many people get a long weekend out of it.
But in Venice, April 25th means something else---those Venetians love to be different than the rest of Italy! Here it is the celebration of the patron saint, Mark. Obviously, the Basilica here is named after him and legend has it that his ruins lie here as well.
Seems that back in the 9th century or so, two Venetians took off for Alexandria to smuggle the remains of Mark to Venice so they could have their own patron saint and be better (or different) than Rome and St. Peters. To make a long legend short, Mark had a dream or vision once that he would spend the rest of life (or death) in Venice and so these Venetians thought it was only just to help a dead guy out. They smuggled his remains in a vat of pork so that the Muslim inspectors in Alexandria wouldnt get anywhere near him and know what they were doing. Mark arrived back safely in Venice and took his stance as the patron saint of the city with the winged lion as his mascot.
During the construction and rebuilding of the Basilica over time, they seemed to have 'lost' the remains of Mark in the building! So much for being revered! Anyway, they had like a huge prayer session and asked for a sign and Marks hand came out of the wall along with some smoke indicating where he was and they promptly moved him to center stage where he remains today.
There you have it....as a Christian, I cant help but be disappointed at this legend. But on the other hand, it is ever so amusing and the Venetians arent really pious about it and dont claim to have the end all authority like you find in Rome, so I get it and take it as another part of what makes Venice Venice.
As for celebrating this day, men are supposed to give a rose to their sisters, mothers, wives and girlfriends. What this has to do with the price of tea in china and Mark's remains I dont know, but I think this is finally the one day of the year that those annoying rose peddlers will be happy!
April 25th in Italy is the equivalent of July 4th in America. Its a big day of celebrating and lucky for them, it falls on a Friday, so many people get a long weekend out of it.
But in Venice, April 25th means something else---those Venetians love to be different than the rest of Italy! Here it is the celebration of the patron saint, Mark. Obviously, the Basilica here is named after him and legend has it that his ruins lie here as well.
Seems that back in the 9th century or so, two Venetians took off for Alexandria to smuggle the remains of Mark to Venice so they could have their own patron saint and be better (or different) than Rome and St. Peters. To make a long legend short, Mark had a dream or vision once that he would spend the rest of life (or death) in Venice and so these Venetians thought it was only just to help a dead guy out. They smuggled his remains in a vat of pork so that the Muslim inspectors in Alexandria wouldnt get anywhere near him and know what they were doing. Mark arrived back safely in Venice and took his stance as the patron saint of the city with the winged lion as his mascot.
During the construction and rebuilding of the Basilica over time, they seemed to have 'lost' the remains of Mark in the building! So much for being revered! Anyway, they had like a huge prayer session and asked for a sign and Marks hand came out of the wall along with some smoke indicating where he was and they promptly moved him to center stage where he remains today.
There you have it....as a Christian, I cant help but be disappointed at this legend. But on the other hand, it is ever so amusing and the Venetians arent really pious about it and dont claim to have the end all authority like you find in Rome, so I get it and take it as another part of what makes Venice Venice.
As for celebrating this day, men are supposed to give a rose to their sisters, mothers, wives and girlfriends. What this has to do with the price of tea in china and Mark's remains I dont know, but I think this is finally the one day of the year that those annoying rose peddlers will be happy!
Thursday, April 24, 2008
The Cat with 27 Lives
Mr. Peabody never ceases to amaze me. He did really well under the circumstances for having to go to two different vets on two different days. He is basically in great health according to the first one for his age (17) but a little low on fluids. After an IV and a basic exam, I took him home to rest for a day until we did it all over again by going to the State Vet.
The first vet was nice enough to even write me a certificate of his health to present to the State. And after a few formalities of checking that his microchip was working and that I didnt just pick this cat up off the street, I have the paperwork for Mr. P to fly home!
Now, he can rest for a week or so until I have to shove him back in the cage for the long flight back to Phoenix.....he's such a good boy and I bet he will be super excited when his life of travelling is done!
The first vet was nice enough to even write me a certificate of his health to present to the State. And after a few formalities of checking that his microchip was working and that I didnt just pick this cat up off the street, I have the paperwork for Mr. P to fly home!
Now, he can rest for a week or so until I have to shove him back in the cage for the long flight back to Phoenix.....he's such a good boy and I bet he will be super excited when his life of travelling is done!
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